Need advice on hinges and how to prevent binding

Buenaventura Durruti

Buenaventura Durruti

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Hi all,

So, I've decided to put a cupboard door under the stairs and reclad the walls/studs.
I've used 12mm ply and I'm going to cover it with 21x4mm D stripwood à la baton wall. I had to use 12mm ply otherwise it would be thicker than the edge of the stairs with the stripwood.

Anyway - I need some recommendations for hinges - especially to stop them from binding, especially as I want the strip wood to hide the joins between the door and wall - hidden door sort of thing. I've spotted these - Blum thin door hinge and TIOMOS M0 HINGE - which is fine for the thickness I hope. But it's the other things I need help with.

I don't know if it should be Full, Half, or total Inset. I need to make sure it won't bind with the stud work and the overlapping stripwood. I can overlap the stripwood any amount provided it covers the gap.

I'm happy to add wood to reinforce the inside of the door and mount the hinges if that would help - or even go for completely different hinges.

I've provided a beautiful diagram, which I hope makes sense.

All help is appreciated - I've bought and cut the ply already:D.

Screenshot 2023-09-14 at 17.24.23.png
 
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Even it it's fully inset? Is there no hinge that would pull it out from the strip overlap. It needs only to be a couple of mm to hide the join.
 
Gosh! I could probably build that.
I'd need to make sure it was strong enough. These are largish doors.
The stripwood could be attached to the door side.

Still hoping for an off the shelf solution though.
 
Would something like this work? 170 degree hinge. The clearance looks like it would fit. and the concealing strip wood can be on either door or 'wall'
HERE is a video in action - I would obviously try and find one that's a bit higher quality

Or a parallel opening Hinge - like this.
 
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I had/have a very similar situation with a 18mm door that has another 20mm of tile on the face. The door needs to pivot to move sideways and out, and looks like yours does too.

I looked at lots of those hinges, even bought some, but the problem was always that the pivot point is too far back - the door does not move forward enough. Recessing a hinge further forward (deeper) in the door was required, but not possible in my case.

I ran out of time in the end, and left the door off and it got added to the list of my 100's of unfinished jobs.

I'll have a look at my notes, and see what hinges I tried.

But that video I posted would seem to solve the issue, and perhaps better quality hinges with less play.
 
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