Neighbour refuses to let me paint my fence

[footprints]

I never paint fences now, just a chore that needs doing every couple of years as it looks tatty, proper closeboarded or featherboard fences will not last any longer, as said the posts go first, and those pre made panels from DIY stores just fall apart whatever you do to them

 

[Koolpc]

Fences will last longer if protected, painted.

 

[MisterBoy]

Fences will last longer if protected, painted.

Just get pressure treated timber, way better than paint.
but timber doesn't need treating, timber cladding can last 100 years untreated and weathered

 

[big-all]

Fences will last longer if protected, painted.

Absolutely not an expert in painting in any way shape or form ----but general observations
well sealed woodwork will not let moisture move it will be contained and held captive
now if it can breath it will help but often doors/windows/ fences will rot at the bottom now the tendancty is to go mad and seal the end grain to protect the end grain but in actual fact sealing the bottom can be the problem as in your door /window has moisture passing panels or glass above and collecting by gravity in the base off the timbers but now as it cant breath and moisture cant escape it rots

as a general point my shed [workshop ]door is an external glazed door made from say 3x2" with dowels by perhaps magnet /howdens or other trade outlet
i gave it a primer base only now mainly worn off it gets the full weather perhaps 15% off the time and theres no decay yes a tiny bit open grain and the door is now about 20 years old with the first say 3 years propped in open weather next door the given to me 18 years on my shed
in general decay needs a continuous moisture level where as constant changing from soaking to bone dry is fine

 

[MisterBoy]

Absolutely not an expert in painting in any way shape or form ----but general observations
well sealed woodwork will not let moisture move it will be contained and held captive
now if it can breath it will help but often doors/windows/ fences will rot at the bottom now the tendancty is to go mad and seal the end grain to protect the end grain but in actual fact sealing the bottom can be the problem as in your door /window has moisture passing panels or glass above and collecting by gravity in the base off the timbers but now as it cant breath and moisture cant escape it rots

as a general point my shed [workshop ]door is an external glazed door made from say 3x2" with dowels from perhaps magnet /howdens or other trade outlet
i gave it a primer base only now mainly worn off it gets the full weather perhaps 15% off the time and theres no decay yes a tiny bit open grain and the door is now about 20 years old with the first say 3 years propped in open weather next door the given to me 18 years on my shed
in general decay needs a continuous moisture level where as constant changing from soaking to bone dry is fine

Think this overcomplicates it somewhat. When I hear timber experts talk it basically boils down to: wet timber won't last. Ensuring ventilation and avoiding prolonged soaking is key. Wood doesn't mind getting wet as long as it can dry out.
Hence air/rain gaps behind cladding. Obviously the problem is any timber stuck into the ground, which should be considered short lived unless you can soak it in tar

 

[big-all]

Think this overcomplicates it somewhat. When I hear timber experts talk it basically boils down to: wet timber won't last. Ensuring ventilation and avoiding prolonged soaking is key. Wood doesn't mind getting wet as long as it can dry out.
Hence air/rain gaps behind cladding. Obviously the problem is any timber stuck into the ground, which should be considered short lived unless you can soak it in tar

i actually thought i was simplifying it
"timber experts" are just someone with an opinion often based on life experiences
i dont claim to be an expert but offer an opinion based on you guessed it "life experiences"
now what i am trying to do is stop the link between people with opinions being taken in an authoritative way just because they have many posts as without checks and balances there opinion can be given too much credibility and that applies to me if you look at my post count most will " tend to accept " without question what i say but i dont like the 100% acceptance so put doubt so people think before accepting my my suggestion without further thought

 

[blup]

I disagree with the owner of the fence having the support posts on their side. This means neighbours get the better side to look at.
When I replaced all three sides of my fencing, (many years ago in a different house), I asked the 3 neighbours if they wanted to share the costs. All 3 said no thanks, so I had the good side of all 3 fences facing into my garden. I paid for it; I get the best side.
I also preserved them with the colour of my choice before they were installed.
Doesn't help the OP of course but may help someone in the future.

It used to be the tradition that the owner of the fence offered up the fair fence to the neighbour, they did to theirs and so on. Everybody got one good side.

Did that when replacing a wooden fence, then the neighbours on the other side replaced theirs and kept the “good side” facing. The other neighbours likewise. Lesson learned.

Blup

 

[blup]

I never paint fences now, just a chore that needs doing every couple of years as it looks tatty, proper closeboarded or featherboard fences will not last any longer, as said the posts go first, and those pre made panels from DIY stores just fall apart whatever you do to them

Likewise, letting it fade to natural is fine.

Blup

 

[davelx]

Access to Neighboring Land Act 1992.

You have to apply for an Access Order through the Court.

You have to show that access is needed to prevent your property being damaged.

Is it worth the time and money though?