New engine and citroen van

T

trevorbayliss

Joined
9 Jun 2014
Messages
1,198
Reaction score
28
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
I had a new engine fitted last year on by citroen berlingo van.

I havent done an oil change on it yet myself, but have tried this morning. I have the haynes manual for the citroen berlingo to help me find the oil filter etc, but bits are in different places on this engine, so i am going to have to take it to my mate to sort for me as i just dont have the correct wrench for this filter lid.

Anyway the big problem i have encountered is getting the protective engine cover off from the underside of the engine. The bolts have been a nightmore to get out and fit into little clips. I can see others before have had a similar issue. So more plastic casing has now been snapped on me getting it off.

My question is what problems will i get if i dont replace this cover. I am leaving it off for now, but when we come to refit i think i might have some problems getting it to connect up properly. Do i need to buy a new cover or can you run without it ?

I also need to find out on monday what engine i actually have as i am not sure if my citroen oil filter (for the origional engine that i have spare) will fit this new one.
 
trevorbayliss said:
Anyway the big problem i have encountered is getting the protective engine cover off from the underside of the engine. The bolts have been a nightmore to get out and fit into little clips. I can see others before have had a similar issue. So more plastic casing has now been snapped on me getting it off.

My question is what problems will i get if i dont replace this cover. I am leaving it off for now, but when we come to refit i think i might have some problems getting it to connect up properly. Do i need to buy a new cover or can you run without it ?
Click to expand...

Many people do leave the off. They are fitted for two reasons - they make a slight difference in MPG, in that they improve the air flow under the vehicle and will help the engine warm up quicker. They also keep the engine and the engine bay cleaner.

Those are good enough reasons to make sure my undertray is always refitted after any work. Mine uses 1/4 turn bolts, I have had it on and off many times and they easy way to fit it is - Laid under the car, I prop the rear of the very large undertray on my toes, fix the front edge in place then work towards the rear edge.

The 1/4 turn fixings latch into spring clamps, I keep a spare stock of the spring clamps and the fixing bolts, to replace any which fail.
 
Last edited:
Many splash shields have flaps in them so that you don't need to remove the whole cover to access the sump plug and oil filter. Have a good look before you do any more damage.
 
Splash shield helps with corrosion resistance and road noise. Also easier and quicker to pass MOT because they wouldn't touch it to fail anything behind it, meaning the shield also prevents damage from road debris.
 
Last edited:
The undershield on this Citroen is the worse of all time.....the three rear screws fit into square nuts that clip onto the subframe, and when you turn the screw the nuts just start to spin, within the hollow subframe.
I had to cut the things off with a grinder.....not pretty as they are recessed!
Use plenty of grease if you manage to sort it, or you’ll have the same battle next time......unfortunately you can’t get in there with cable ties, like you can the front.
I guess you have the DV6 motor, filter front right? They haven’t changed, it’s the one with the peg.
John
 
Just leave it off, it may help catch some oil leaks and stop them staining your drive though if it does leak a little.
 
The undertrays are primarily fitted to help get through the type approval noise test. They reduce mechanical noise from the engine bay, reflected off the tarmac. They do also keep your engine cleaner, and they help (on many cars) with airflow through the radiator by lowering the air pressure in the engine bay. It's perfectly possible to drive without one, but the bottom of your engine bay will get dirtier. Unless you're towing the maximum trailer weight at high speed, in the South of Italy, I wouldn't worry too much about the reduction in cooling system efficiency.
 
Here you are:

M8 Cage Nut in A2 Stainless Steel - Westfield Fasteners Ltd

M8 Cage Nut in A2 Stainless Steel. Also known as Captive Nuts or Clip Nuts. Purchase in box or sachet quantity | Next day Delivery.
www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk
These captive nuts are fixed to the rear of the front subframe in rectangular slots, the subframe is hollow section and you cant reach above to drill right through. There are three of them.
The screws that go into them are in a deep recess in the plastic undershield so you cant grind the heads off without lots of damage to the undershield.
If the screws aren't greased, the captive nut just spins, within the hollow section of the subframe.
It's a lose - lose situation, believe me!
John :)
 
Burnerman said:
Here you are:

M8 Cage Nut in A2 Stainless Steel - Westfield Fasteners Ltd

M8 Cage Nut in A2 Stainless Steel. Also known as Captive Nuts or Clip Nuts. Purchase in box or sachet quantity | Next day Delivery.
www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk
These captive nuts are fixed to the rear of the front subframe in rectangular slots, the subframe is hollow section and you cant reach above to drill right through. There are three of them.
The screws that go into them are in a deep recess in the plastic undershield so you cant grind the heads off without lots of damage to the undershield.
If the screws aren't greased, the captive nut just spins, within the hollow section of the subframe.
It's a lose - lose situation, believe me!
John :)
Click to expand...
Are they REALLY stainless? If so, no wonder they give trouble! Stainless is bloody vicious when in electrical contact with mild steel. The mild will rust very quickly.
 
DiyNutJob said:
This is more of a lost, lost situation. Without a picture, I don't know what you are taking about. What does the mfg repair manual say about how to deal with them. They use special tools?
Click to expand...
Just needs regular grease. every time they are removed and refitted, always use grease, or next time will be the nightmare.
 
Avocet said:
Are they REALLY stainless? If so, no wonder they give trouble! Stainless is bloody vicious when in electrical contact with mild steel. The mild will rust very quickly.
Click to expand...
For sure, I don't know whether they are stainless or not.....all I wanted was a picture for DiyNutJob.
In fact, the screws were rusted in badly enough for the nuts to be normal steel.
Once I cut the heads of the screws away (savaging the undertray in the process) I used new nuts and plenty of grease to reassemble.
It's been OK so far.
John :)
 
DiyNutJob said:
This is more of a lost, lost situation. Without a picture, I don't know what you are taking about. What does the mfg repair manual say about how to deal with them. They use special tools?
Click to expand...
When I started work on this car - a 12 plate Multispace - it had obviously received some rough treatment previously as the undertray front screws had all gone, replaced by cable ties. It took me nearly two hours to change the bloody oil!
In the future, I'm going to suck the oil out if the screws are stuck again......the filter is at the top so its not such a big deal.
John :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top