I have a honda crv 2013 4x4. Only used 70k km. Since last year, Every time I go over speed hump. Feels like no shock Absorber, a bit like going over a pothole with no shock abs. The car is not buncy. I checked the strut. No leak and very dry, seems like a good condition. Did the hand push and press down on the bonnet test, the car is not buncy. All the ball joins seems in good condition. Checked front tyres, there is wear outer track of the front tyres. Feel with hands, it feels very catchy outside the front tyres where the wear is. I m not sure it is the struts or springs that I need to replace or need a wheel aligment. As parts only sold seperately, I am hoping someone can give some suggestions.
new struts or springs
- Thread starter toanwa12
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Do you mean it is very soft and pliant, or do you mean it bangs the bump with a crash?
Struts.
it feels no bunces. feel too much plain solid. like hitting over a rock.
You’re hitting the bump stops. Struts.
At risk of stating the obvious, if you are down on the bump stops then you have reached the end of the suspension travel - which is most unlikely - assuming the springs haven't broken so do check them.
See that the tyres aren't over inflated at the same time, and that they aren't ancient.
The shock absorber only affects the spring rebound......if the vehicle was jumping around then they need replacing. If they are gas filled then it's impossible to visually check them, but with the spring off the unit, the strut should compress without much resistance but be very difficult to extend again.
It sounds like the vehicle needs it's tracking set too, but this won't affect your suspension issue.
John
See that the tyres aren't over inflated at the same time, and that they aren't ancient.
The shock absorber only affects the spring rebound......if the vehicle was jumping around then they need replacing. If they are gas filled then it's impossible to visually check them, but with the spring off the unit, the strut should compress without much resistance but be very difficult to extend again.
It sounds like the vehicle needs it's tracking set too, but this won't affect your suspension issue.
John
thanks John. Its not hitting the bumper stop. i checked both springs they are not broken and fully in placed, ok conditions. i believe that the struts are liquid filled instead of air. visually they are very dry. The vehicle not jump arround. Tyre pressure is just below from the spec.At risk of stating the obvious, if you are down on the bump stops then you have reached the end of the suspension travel - which is most unlikely - assuming the springs haven't broken so do check them.
See that the tyres aren't over inflated at the same time, and that they aren't ancient.
The shock absorber only affects the spring rebound......if the vehicle was jumping around then they need replacing. If they are gas filled then it's impossible to visually check them, but with the spring off the unit, the strut should compress without much resistance but be very difficult to extend again.
It sounds like the vehicle needs it's tracking set too, but this won't affect your suspension issue.
John
How fast are you going over these speed bumps?
slow. not very fast. Things i dont know is if it is a bad strut then most likely it will start to jumping arround. my spring a seems in a good condition. but just feel too solid when i go over a speed hump or water pothole. u can tell the difference when a good shock abs working properly, it will take away most of momentum for u.
You've done absolutely everything correct here, and your mileage is very low for the car's age.
I guess the only thing you can do is to replace the front struts with quality after market ones, and check the spring length against new ones.......nothing left to suggest really but the CRV is a good towing vehicle and therefore the springs are on the hard side.
Any comments when the rear wheels go over the same hump?
John
I guess the only thing you can do is to replace the front struts with quality after market ones, and check the spring length against new ones.......nothing left to suggest really but the CRV is a good towing vehicle and therefore the springs are on the hard side.
Any comments when the rear wheels go over the same hump?
John
thank you very much John. ye, i dont drive the crv much and bought car brand new from the dealer. i change oil every 5k and check things up myself. i will follow your suggestions to change the front struts and see. For rear one i can not tell much. i found only front tyres wear outer track quicker than the rear ones. it starts to skied and squaking noise at front tyre when turning. so i did tyre rotation. Turns then getting better.You've done absolutely everything correct here, and your mileage is very low for the car's age.
I guess the only thing you can do is to replace the front struts with quality after market ones, and check the spring length against new ones.......nothing left to suggest really but the CRV is a good towing vehicle and therefore the springs are on the hard side.
Any comments when the rear wheels go over the same hump?
John
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Your description of tyre wear points at Tracking.
Has the CRV been driven up and down kerbs at shallow angles and/or at speed? That can knock the tracking out quickly and badly!
I don't know enough about other suspensions problems to offer any other advice.
Hopefully the place that does the work on the suspension will know how to set the tracking correctly - i.e. with the steering centralised which probably means both sides of the car will need adjusting.
Has the CRV been driven up and down kerbs at shallow angles and/or at speed? That can knock the tracking out quickly and badly!
I don't know enough about other suspensions problems to offer any other advice.
Hopefully the place that does the work on the suspension will know how to set the tracking correctly - i.e. with the steering centralised which probably means both sides of the car will need adjusting.
thank you Fred. i am not very familiar with the term 'Tracking'. do you mean a wheel alignment?
ok. i see what u mean. tracking is mean to be a wheel tracks.
Tracking is making sure that the front wheels in particular are facing in the correct direction determined by the manufacturer.
The front wheels are easily adjusted when on a tracking ramp which uses lasers to get accurate measurements - hopefully this applies to the operator too! He should first lock the steering wheel in the ahead position and then get busy.
If you want to help him, back off the big nuts that secure the track rod end so they aren't seized then do them up again. The track rods coming out of the steering rack have flats on so they can be held by another spanner to stop them rotating.
The rear wheels are likely to be adjusted courtesy of shims and for sure I'd leave that well alone, so long as the car hasn't been pranged!
Good luck with it, we'd like to hear any updates - and check the date of the tyres just to ascertain they aren't antique!
John
The front wheels are easily adjusted when on a tracking ramp which uses lasers to get accurate measurements - hopefully this applies to the operator too! He should first lock the steering wheel in the ahead position and then get busy.
If you want to help him, back off the big nuts that secure the track rod end so they aren't seized then do them up again. The track rods coming out of the steering rack have flats on so they can be held by another spanner to stop them rotating.
The rear wheels are likely to be adjusted courtesy of shims and for sure I'd leave that well alone, so long as the car hasn't been pranged!
Good luck with it, we'd like to hear any updates - and check the date of the tyres just to ascertain they aren't antique!
John