Not quite square edged worktop joins

Joined
9 Jul 2004
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,

I'm about to fit a new kitchen for which we have purchased a solid beech worktop, its not rolled edged but the square edge has been taken off slightly (sorry dont know the correct wording !), so where the tops will meet there would be a slight V shaped groove.

I assume the normal Jig/Router approach would not work as its designed more for roll top edges. I could be really lazy and just fill the joins (but the wife likes that idea less than I do). I looked in the kitchen showroom and to join them they had taken a small amount (2-3mm) off of each bit, any ideas how this is done and what tools are required or indeed any other methods to use ?

Hope to hear from someone out there

Mark
 
If I've followed you correctly, and I'm not missing something obvious, I can't see why you cannot use a worktop jig and router? :?
 
Thanks for info Studders. I must admit I've been a bit tied up lately and have not had time to get down to the local hire shop to check the worktop jigs/router out yet. Having never used one before I assumed they are designed to take more off than I require. Will look into it.

Regards
Mark
 
DIYbloomers said:
Having never used one before I assumed they are designed to take more off than I require. Will look into it.

Regards
Mark

If your worktops are already the right length then no, a jig and router will not help. You need some excess on the end to rout the joints. :(
 
Once again thanks for info.

Sounds like jig/router will not work as the lengths are pretty much as required. How about a power plane, any thoughts anybody ??

Regards
Mark
 
DIYbloomers said:
Once again thanks for info.

Sounds like jig/router will not work as the lengths are pretty much as required. How about a power plane, any thoughts anybody ??

Regards
Mark

That's probably your best bet but make sure you set it to almost minimum cut. Take a fraction more off the bottom of the worktop than the top (and I do mean a fraction) :lol: and you should get quite tight joints. You'll probably need to rout out for the connector bolts but you can do that freehand if you're careful so, no need for a jig.

HTH
 
DIYbloomers said:
Once again thanks for info.

Sounds like jig/router will not work as the lengths are pretty much as required. How about a power plane, any thoughts anybody ??

Regards
Mark

if you havent used a plain before be carefull
when the nose off the plane comes off the work you have to
support it otherwise it will just dig in
you either have to support the weight of the plane as you leave
the work
work front to back breakout on the back
or if your not shure secure a batton 2 by 2 on the back edge
[any less you might still get dipping]to support the nose

good luck big all
 
As it's wood you could lots of different things. What about fixing the worktops in place, and routing a groove into which you could glue a filling strip, (use a flexible glue, not dead hard) then cut it back to the same height as the worktop.
 
Back
Top