Obtuse angle cut for moulding.

[conny]

I have some small ogee moulding I need to fit in an obtuse corner, (approx 120-125 degrees).
Whats the best way to do it? I know I can scribe it using a coping saw with a deeper back angle but is there a quicker/easier way to do it.
I have a sliding bevel saw if that can be of use.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I assume this is an inside corner and the bisected angle would therefore be 60 to 62.5 degrees? Is the section being cut flat both sides? If so what what would be wrong with laying the material face down flat on the mitre saw and making a 30 to 27.5 degrees (i.e 90 - 60 to 90 - 62.5 degrees) bevel cut on the bevel scale? (I.e with the head tilted rather than vertical and set to 0 degree mitre cut).

The bevel scale scale is marked 0 to something like 48 degrees (plumb cut to tilted) on a mitre saw

Alternatively, cut on the mitre scale but this time with the face of the material towards the fence and the mitre angle at 30 to 27.5 degrees (i.e 90 - 60 to 90 - 62.5 degrees) but the blade plumb (zero degrees of bevel)

The mitre scale is marked 0 to something like 48 degrees (square cut to mitre) on a mitre saw

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I assume this is an outside corner and the bisected angle would therefore be 60 to 62.5 degrees? Is the section being cut flat both sides? If so what what would be wrong with laying the material face down flat on the mitre saw and making a 30 to 27.5 degrees (i.e 90 - 60 to 90 - 62.5 degrees) bevel cut on the bevel scale? (I.e with the head tilted rather than vertical and set to 0 degree mitre cut).

The bevel scale scale is marked 0 to something like 48 degrees (plumb cut to tilted) on a mitre saw

Alternatively, cut on the mitre scale but this time with the face of the material towards the fence and the mitre angle at 30 to 27.5 degrees (i.e 90 - 60 to 90 - 62.5 degrees) but the blade plumb (zero degrees of bevel)

The mitre scale is marked 0 to something like 48 degrees (square cut to mitre) on a mitre saw

Don't see how either of those will work- just flipping the piece won't change the cut angle. To make an outside corner at that sort of angle your best bet will be (on a sliding mitre saw) make yourself a measured wedge (20 degrees?), set your mitre saw to 40 degrees, clamp the wedge to the backplane, hold your piece against the wedge, cut. You'll probably need to pretrim the piece to within 20mm or so of its longest length, depends on your mitre saw.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

120 to 125 degrees in an inside corner, total angle? That's an obtuse angle. A similar method to yours of using a block (ideally at 90 degrees) with an auxiliary front support be can be used to cut acute angles down to 1 or 2 degrees (I sometimes cut folding wedges that way), but the OP did say inside corner, obtuse angle and it can sometimes be better to mitre those on strength grounds to prevent the moulded edge breaking. BTW a 120 degree angle is still going to be a 30 degree bevel cut then a scribe

Edit: @conny, an inside corner mitre cut will still open up slightly over time, but that can be cured by adding dowels, a biscuit or a Domino, especially if solid wood moulding, but far less likely if MDF and Mitre Mated