Old Downpipes and Hoppers (Sandblast them?)

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Hi all I have some old cast iron downpipes on an old stone building I need to clean up, they have years of neglect and are really tatty and rusted.

I was considering sandblasting but I don't think it would be a very cost effective method, although it would probably make a smarter job I think a wire brush or wire disc on a drill or angle grinder would probably be the most productive alternative method.

Anyone got any better methods.

Gable downpipe and hopper.jpg
Ground Vent.JPG
Downpipe & hopper and ground vent.jpg
IMG_0596.JPG
 
I’d have a preliminary bash with a wire brush or a drill attachment wire brush first. See how it goes. If you’re properly p1ssed off after an hour with little results get them blasted. Lovely building by the way.

Could be a bugger getting them off.
 
darkan9el good evening.

Must say right of, the cast work is really good. I especially like the vent, we do not get them up here in the far frozen north.

OK options?

how about considering blasting? with grit or sand or Soda or even glass? [these are some of the available options, personally i would opt for Soda

BUT?

If you run with this idea, you will need to fully "protect" the adjacent stone so that there is no inadvertant over spray and cleaning of the stone it would end up looking Naff?

There are several tools that you can consider, the Automotive industry employs small hand held units that look like paint spray guns, with a
Reservoir for the blasting material, there is a high pressure air compressor driving the entire thing.

The "Grit Blasting Guns" are easily and cheaply available on e bay as is the blasting material, you could consider hiring an air compressor?

How about hiring the Kit? it may be available, but a niche market?

But as above imperative you fully and completely protect the stone.

The advantage of the above is that yes it is a "Sand Blasting type" of device, but far more controllable such as in a Garage, wheels can be blasted, or indeed car parts can be blasted whilst still on the vehicle, such is the degree of control ability.

Finally, there will be a load of material and paint spreading on to the surrounding ground, protection of the ground is also needed, Vinyl or polythene "dust sheets"

Ken
 
Hi guys thanks for the suggestions, I'm going down to the site today so may have a preliminary test with wire brushing. Removal of downpipes and hoppers isn't an option unfortunately.

I'd considered sandblasting but after looking at the hiring costs to actual work to be done ratio it came out as too expensive. Also the stone work was also a big concern for me and also the ground, although the ground isn't particularly well maintained. Having said that I think I may have a small sand blasting kit and I've read that using Plaster sand actually works quite well as a cheap option, The only downside is the compressor I have may not be powerful enough and all I'll end up doing is creating a matt finish on flaking paint. I'll have to check the spec on my Compressor, it might give me the excuse to buy a new more powerful one :sneaky:

As a job, I really want to make this iron work pop and bring it back to its former glory so I'm not worried about putting the effort in, but I have to be practical as well.
 
Just had a root around in the garage and found a spot sandblasting kit from Workzone, Max working pressure is 3 Bar my compressor will go to 8 bar so I'm feeling a bit more optimistic. I also saved some large cardboard packaging from when I fitted my shower so I think that would protect the stone although I'll have a test first to see if the sandblaster damages the cardboard indirectly.

This could save me a lot of hard graft and give a top finish. Might even have time to knock up a video on my Nikon camera; It does Time-lapse.
 
darkan9el good evening.

Must say right of, the cast work is really good. I especially like the vent, we do not get them up here in the far frozen north.




Ken
The vent wants removing and the pipe underground sealing up. Ugly pointless things - and yours has a cracked pipe. Put it on eBay for Ken to buy. Google Buchan trap ( or look at posts here on Diynot )
 
Well tried a bit of sandblasting, never again lol!
I thought the pipe was cracked but its actually the remnants of ivy.
I was talking to a car refinisher the other day and he said the way he get got flaking paint and rust off an old cast iron lamppost was to use a needle scaler for an air compressor and I have to say it worked very well from the images he showed me, I have an old cast iron water pump in my garden that is in a similar state to the downpipes, so I've bought a needle scaler and will try it out on that, if that works I'm good to go, it should be here for Tuesday or Wednesday so expect some before and after images of the water pump on Thursday.

Actually heres a before now.
DSC_0008_DxO.jpg
 
Wishing you lots of luck, really do hope it works.

PS there is a bit missing from the pump? or you may already know that??? the rod that actuates the pump??

Ken
 
Long time passed since I last posted but had some unforeseen problems stopping me from continuing the job. Anyway went down today and started on the downpipes. Had a bit of a surprise because the hoppers were actually cast lead hoppers so I couldn't use the scaler on that, had to use blades and blunt screwdrivers and a lot of patience.

Got to clean the lead up tomorrow and buff it up to a more even finish, the hopper is not going to be painted now which I'm pleased about because it would be a shame to cover this up now, but the downpipes will be. I actually like the downpipes as it is but unfortunately they want it painting so it gets painted.

Got to putty the joints too.
IMG_0983.jpg
IMG_0986.jpg
 
That hopper is beginning to look good,

Word of warning, wear a mask when working on such material.

As from now on and what to do with it?

Sandpaper or rough emery cloth but, [there is generally a BUT?] try to rub in one direction the marks left will be visible for a long time.

Or protect the wall and use an Acid wash or a paint stripper? on the hopper??? paint stripper will bounce of the lead but make life easier for you?

As an aside, there appears to be a gap between the lead hopper and the down pipe?

Thanks for the images posted I am looking forward to images of the old pump [when and if you have time?]

Ken.
 
the pipes and hoppers should have been removed from the wall an split up into sections, an then taken to a body shop where 30mins work would have cleaned them up ready for paint.
the backs of the pipes an fittings are the most vulnerable to rust an decay an can best be attended to off the wall.
sand blasting stuff in-situ can be a well losin game.

the ear lugs are spiked with pipe nails to wood plugs or packins which will need changing.
new spikes or SS nails can be used for re-fixin.
the spikes will come out easy with a bit of leverege.

paintin down pipes black is traditional but you never paint lead.
 
@kenmac: I always use protective wear, especially on jobs like this, it's a fool who doesn't. A mild acid wash might be the better option, I was loathed to use the tools I did but it was the only way to get the paint and crud off.

Yes I'm aware the old pump has the plunger missing, that's a shame but it's just an ornament not a working object, I may add a pseudo plunger for effect at some point.

The hopper will not be painted it will remain bare but cleaned to a more even finish.

The gap between the lead and the cast iron downpipes will be filled with a putty.


@Bobased: The option for removal would have been nice but the owners didn't want it removed so unfortunately it had to be done in situ, believe me, I would have rather removed it and had someone else do the hard work. The back of the downpipe was stripped using an angle grinder and straps of emery, the cast iron is in surprisingly good condition, no holes or excessive rust. The downpipe will have an etch primer applied prior to 2 undercoats and 2 coats of gloss.

All of the downpipes on this property are painted in BS 10B15 so it will be repainted in that colour. The windows I painted previously are the same: BS 10B15
 
darkan9el, good evening again.

A consideration?

Is the lead hopper vulnerable to the attentions of metal thieves? can it be seen from the public footpath?

If so you have a dilemma, if left "looking like" lead it may vanish one evening? if vulnerable you may have to consider disguising the fact that the hopper is indeed lead, a coat of paint to blend it into the cast iron??

If a camouflage ploy cannot be achieved, i would take images of dimensions, meaning hold a tape at all salient areas and take digital images of the tape so that if the thieves strike, you could? somewhere get a specialist to re-cast a replacement??

Ken
 
Hi Ken, that's a very valid point, they do have other hoppers that are not easy to access so they have copies to hand so to speak. The location is away from any public roads and is very isolated so it cannot be seen and security is very high. I think I will mention this point to them and at least the can make a considered choice.

Thanks for pointing that out.

Sad when you have to consider these things.
 
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