Open fire conversion to Multifuel stove

E

Estrella

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I've been thinking about this for a while, and today at 1pm I decided to rip out our ugly fireplace ot make way for a MF stove. I want the chimney breast to be exposed brick, so there was a lot of grinding / chipping of the plaster off the wall.

Before

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After a bit of crow bar action

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After tile surround removal

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Then the boring plaster stripping process

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I used a grinder with a wire brush attachment to bring off the main plaster remnants.

I just need to work out what else I can do to 'liven up' the look of the bricks

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The stove has been ordered and should arrive this week. I have decided to make my own register plate as they are bloody expensive!!

EDIT: And I also decided to rip up the carpet and found perfect condition wooden floorboards, so they will be getting a sanding as well :D
 
bathjobby said:
Are you installing a flue liner ?
Click to expand...

Still deciding to be honest. The chimney is sound, but I know for a fact that it will run more effiecently with a liner. I dont know whether to just try it without at first and see how I get on. The stove arrives tommorow , so I'l set it in place and see what solid flue length etc I need and take it from there.

Cheers
 
I asked because I've been thinking about one myself and most of what I've read states that they burn a whole lot hotter (forget numbers but something like 2 to 3 times) than an open fire. So a chimney that is OK with an open fire, may not be with these very hot gases, could lead to leaks and worst of all fires. So not sure if your 'try it and see' strategy is best..
 
From what I have read you have it back to front Bathjobby. Stoves send 80 % of the heat out into the room, whereas open fires send 80% up the chimney. Its the cooler chimney which causes tar build ups apparently. These tar build ups are more likely to appear with a stove/no liner setup.
On saying all of that there are people all over the net (and some on this site) that have used a stove without a liner for donkeys years!
 
CO KILLS carbon monoxide is the silent killer
i would recomend you use a liner!
if not

Why not get advice first from the shop where you buy the stove or a registered HETAS installer.

As for size of your opening hope this helps
1) Register plate must be 1.5mm steel and needs to be sealed so that it is airtight so no smoke can come back into the room

2) you must have a gap of 150mm each side of stove to non combustable sides

3) You must have 230mm above the stove to non combustable (460 above the stove for combustable i.e. wood)

4) You must position stove 50mm from back wall

5) your hearth must extend at least 225mm in front of stove

6) if your stove has a grater output than 5kw you must have air ventilation in the room venting out to external source

Hope this helps a little but its your safety

regards jay
 
Cheers Jay , my install qualifies on all your points.

I have decided to fit a liner , but not until next month when funds allow.

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BoxCleva,
Do you find it radiates more heat out in to the room compared to the open fire you had ?,
I'm asking because we are undecided whether to replace our open fire with a multi fuel.
Any opinions you have about it would be nice to hear / read.

marshman.
 
Hi Marshman,
Initially no, but I didnt have a plate sealing off the cminey around teh flue , so essentially , as with an open fire, the heat was screaming up teh chimney instead of into the room. Plate fitted and yes it is much better than the open fire that went before it. Well worth the £300 !
 
Thanks for that :)

Still some pointing to be done, new wallpaper either side of the breast, sand and stain the wooden floor and finish stripping the 12 inch high skirting boards!

The property is about 150-160 years old so it seems in keeping, rather than the 60's - 70's fireplace that was in there beforehand :?

EDIT:
While i am on the subject, I used a whole tin of 'master craftsmen' edition Nitromors paint stripper to strip two metres of the skirting. And it was rubbish! Is there a better alternative to Nitromors ?
 
thanks for the reply BoxCleva, just one more question, has it cut down on the dust that gets about the room.
re the paint stripping, well I was thinking a blow lamp but that's most likely lead paint on them so not a good idea.
sorry can't help on that but I'll keep a watch in the plastering section for you.
If the pointing is on the fire place and you want to keep it the same as what is there now, get a tub of lime putty, the mix is 3& 1 lime
no cement and give your bricks a good damping with water first.
 
has it cut down on the dust that gets about the room.
Click to expand...

Without question. Obviously you get some ash dust when you empty the ashpan, but it is nothing compared to an open fire.

If the pointing is on the fire place and you want to keep it the same as what is there now, get a tub of lime putty, the mix is 3& 1 lime
no cement and give your bricks a good damping with water first.
Click to expand...

Lime putty ? Not heard of that. Are you saying you mix 3 parts sand with 1 part lime putty ? Would appreciate some clarification on that. Cheers
 
Lime putty ? Not heard of that. Are you saying you mix 3 parts sand with 1 part lime putty ?
yes. http://www.chalkhill-lime.co.uk/putty.html
do a uk google on lime putty and you should get some good sites on how to apply it.
if you go for a modem mix, then 9/2/1 the 2 being hydraulic lime, but it will never look white like the old mortar.

20 litre tub is about 3 to 4 shovels full.
 
To go back to your paint stripping problem, I have done two old houses and use a heat gun and scraper for flat surfaces and a shave hook for the mouldings. Then finish with the green pan scrubbers sold for cleaning saucepans. If you are concerned about lead use a mask. Also you may find some old paints and varnishes go puddiny(for want of a better term). You need patience and will need to clean your scraper often.
 
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