Outdoor tap (old style) has leak - How to open and repair?

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Jc Mchugh

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Hi,

I'm looking for a bit of guidance. DIY novice here, so please excuse me for using the wrong terminology to describe stuff : )

I have an old outdoor tap which constantly drips (see pic) from the tap spout.

It's an old tap (see pic) and I'm wondering how I would stop the dripping.
- I've already tried putting some PTFE tape into the top part (unscrewed the threaded part and accessed a cartridge - which doesn't fully 'come out' - and put a strip of PTFE in place).
-- While this did make the old tap feel 'tigher' (opens / closes more like a new tap), it did not stop the drip.

So, now i think i have to unscrew the 'bottom part' to access the cartridge where a faulty washer may be in place?
- I've tried unscrewing the lower part of the tap, but it's so stiff (painted over and probably not opened in 30 years) that I'm not sure I'm unscrewing the correct part?
-- The lower nut and 'flange' seem to be connected, so I guess I should be trying to open it from the lower nut, as opposed to the flange?
-- While trying to open this lower nut/flange the entire tap was starting to turn, so I paused until I gain some guidance.

Any advice greatly received.

Cheers,
John
 

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  • OUTDOOR TAP.jpg
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It's not what is called a cartridge type of tap, it is just a normal tap. If you mean dripping from the spout (where the water normally comes out), then it is the rubber tap washer which needs replacing - which cost just pennies. You access that, by undoing the entire upper halve of the tap, leaving just spout and inlet in place.

You can sometimes get a little more working life out of the washer, by simply truning them upside down.
 
Harry, huge thanks for this information!
- You are correct about where the dripping is coming from (the spout).
- Thank you for confirming that it is the 'rubber tap washer' that needs replacing.
- When you say "You access that, by undoing the entire upper half of the tap, leaving just spout and inlet in place"... Do you mean I do this by unscrewing the section of I've now labelled 1) or 2)? (Note: When I previously unscrewed from section 1, I don't recall being able to take this section all the way 'out' to allow me to access the washer).
= Huge thanks for your help.

Denso, thank you for your feedback. Appreciated. However, I want as little disruption as possible, so hoping not to fit a new tap.
- The stop cock doesn't fully shut my mains water off, just down to a trickle (that's another issue), so replacing the full tap is a bit of a faff.
- I also don't want the hassle of mounting, lagging, etc. a new tap, so going with the path of least work.
= Thanks for the suggestion though.

Cheers,
John
 

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  • OUTDOOR TAP - 1 or 2.jpg
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Thank you Denso, that's (Item 2) what I thought.
- Unfortunately, that's the part of the tap that I've struggled to open.
-- I'll get some WD40 on it and a bigger wrench! : )

Thanks, guys.
John
 
Jc Mchugh said:
- When you say "You access that, by undoing the entire upper half of the tap, leaving just spout and inlet in place"... Do you mean I do this by unscrewing the section of I've now labelled 1) or 2)? (Note: When I previously unscrewed from section 1, I don't recall being able to take this section all the way 'out' to allow me to access the washer).
Click to expand...

1 only gives you access to the sealing gland. #2 should unscrew and allow access to replace the washer on the end of the spindle. The washer might be fixed to the end of the spindle by a screw.
 
Thanks again, Harry. Appreciated.
- I suspected i'd have to access this area. Now it's time for the WD40 and a big wrench to help me get this opened.

Cheers,
John : )
 
To comply with Water regulations outside taps require a double check valve and an interior stop valve
To prevent problems in the future it would be cheaper to replace the outside tap with a modern one .
 
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