Oven - plug

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Hi - I have purchased a new oven, with a plug on it. I do not have a socket nearby, but do have an oven switch on the wall nearby (big red button), which current oven is wired into. Is it fine to get a sparky to take the plug taken off and wired into that switch? Or will it be too powerful for the oven and I actually need a socket? Many thanks !
 
Is it fine to get a sparky to take the plug taken off and wired into that switch? Or will it be too powerful for the oven and I actually need a socket?
We've had discussions on this matter before - the simplest solution would be to get a socket connected to the cooker outlet and simply plug the oven into that.
 
- the simplest solution would be to get a socket connected to the cooker outlet and simply plug the oven into that.
If the OP has an socket built in to the cooker switch then he could plug his oven from there.

Or he could just wire the oven directly from the cooker outlet.
 
Or he could just wire the oven directly from the cooker outlet.
This is where the discussion comes in :rolleyes:

Plug and go ovens have an attached (slim) flex and a 13A fuse in the moulded plug - as I've also found, they may have altered PCBs that have linked out sections, where an internal fuse may be on higher wattage ovens, that can be connected directly to a cooker outlet.

Would it be correct to connect an oven with it's attached 13A flex, without a 13A fuse, to a 32A cooker outlet?

Besides, who was recently suggesting that cutting a plug off of an appliance, would invalidate its warranty? ;)

As said before, the simplest solution may be to fit a socket to the cooker outlet - a solution that everybody seems happy with! :)
 
Thanks everyone, can i at least assume that (a) its no dangerous to take plug off and wire in to the switch on the wall (b) it wont damage the oven?
It says:
Total electricity loading, W
2060
 
Thanks everyone, can i at least assume that (a) its no dangerous to take plug off and wire in to the switch on the wall (b) it wont damage the oven?
It says:
Total electricity loading, W
2060
It requires a 13amp fuse to protect the flex.
 
If it’s a single cooker switch, can’t you just change it for a 13A double pole switched spur?
 
This is where the discussion comes in :rolleyes:
What is this thread about then?
Would it be correct to connect an oven with it's attached 13A flex, without a 13A fuse, to a 32A cooker outlet?
Cooker - Fixed load. Overload not possible. An event of a short circuit would trip whatever rating the MCB is upstream.
 
Cooker - Fixed load. Overload not possible. An event of a short circuit would trip whatever rating the MCB is upstream.
Yes, and don't get me wrong -
I have posted exactly the same comment before (a good while ago), and was torn apart over it!
This is how the 'discussion' usually goes.
The other side mentions manufacturers instructions stating it should be protected by a 13A fuse; a 13A fuse would blow before a 32A breaker, potentially saving some damage to the components of the oven; etc.
...and rarely, examples on this forum have demonstrated that an oven with multiple elements could trip an MCB, when for example insulation between the wiring and case has melted, one elements supply could partially short when another element is still heating.
If you wanted to cover for every eventuality, then changing the flex from the (probably) 1.25mm2 to 4mm2 would definitely allow the cable to be protected from such an extrememely rare occurrence.
But then, you are not only cutting off the plug, you are swapping the cable and ignoring the MI, so surely a case for voiding the warranty! :)

Hence, the non-controversial solution, that won't raise questions from an errant EICR...
the simplest solution may be to fit a socket to the cooker outlet - a solution that everybody seems happy with!
 
Besides, who was recently suggesting that cutting a plug off of an appliance, would invalidate its warranty? ;)
The manufacturers instructions tell you to cut off the plug if it is unsuitable for your installation.
 
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