Overriding sensor in outside security lights

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Bratman91

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I have a couple of security lights with PIR sensors. However, they are fairly old and are failing, so I want to replace them. Both of them have halogen bulbs and switching the power off and on quickly, overrides the sensor/timer so that the light stays on. This is useful when, for example, using the garden for BBQs in Summer evenings. Switching off the power for 30 seconds and switching back on reverts to normal security mode.
This feature seems to be missing from the lights that are now on the market. Is this something that LED lights cannot or do not incorporate, whereas older halogen lights do, or have I not looked hard enough?
 
A more reliable way to override the PIR is this

pir overide single unit.jpg


It does require 4 core cable from switches to lamp.

The use of a double pole switch for the OFF override allows for full isolation should the lamp become damaged or damp enough to trip an RCD or MCB
 
Thanks RandomGrinch and bernardgreen. I was looking for one of 100w rather than the 30w one but, if I can’t find one, I’ll try the double pole switch solution.
 
Bratman91 said:
I’ll try the double pole switch solution.
Click to expand...

Double pole switch will not give Overide ON, the single pole switch in Bernards drawing might, however I feel that you may not be able to access the switchline within the fitting to connect it, without butchering the fitting and maybe soldering it on.
 
Bratman91 said:
Thanks RandomGrinch and bernardgreen. I was looking for one of 100w rather than the 30w one but, if I can’t find one, I’ll try the double pole switch solution.
Click to expand...
A 30watt LED floodlight will be very bright indeed. LED lights can be as much as 10 times brighter than the old halogen equivalent.
 
Taylortwocities said:
A 30watt LED floodlight will be very bright indeed. LED lights can be as much as 10 times brighter than the old halogen equivalent.
Click to expand...

I recently bought a 20w LED panel, just to provide some light around my bin store. That provides an immense amount of light - I have a very large garden and even side on to the light, it provides enough to find my way around the garden.
 
Unfortunately as Rocky mentions, not all fittings give access to the switched live between sensor and lamp. To my knowledge there are four different arrangements you will find generally on sale :
1) No over-ride facility or switched live connection.
2) Over-ride by switching off-on in some particular pattern.
3) Switched live connection available so you can use an over-ride switch as Bernard suggests.
4) Both of 2 and 3 apply.
The problem is that generally there is no mention at all on the packaging or description. Sometimes you can't even tell from reading the instructions. So there can be an element of buying something that looks like it will suit (meet other factors) and see what you get :rolleyes: At least these days it costs a lot less than it used to when playing such a game of chance !

There is one way to guarantee things - use a separate sensor and lights. It has the advantage that you can choose the sensor (and it's location) according to the needs for the sensor, and choose the lights separately for their lighting effects.
 
SimonH2 said:
There is one way to guarantee things - use a separate sensor and lights. It has the advantage that you can choose the sensor (and it's location) according to the needs for the sensor, and choose the lights separately for their lighting effects.
Click to expand...

Also - A lighting source generally works best at a height above the area to be lit, a PIR sensor generally works best lower down, facing side on to movement you want to detect.
 
Harry Bloomfield said:
Also - A lighting source generally works best at a height above the area to be lit, a PIR sensor generally works best lower down, facing side on to movement you want to detect.
Click to expand...
Hence all the integrated sensor lights you see that light up the neighbourhood, any low flying aircraft, but not the actual area you want lit up. One thing that puzzles me is why, when there's only 90˚ between the wall most of these things are screwed to and the horizontal above which any light is completely wasted ... most of these things have at least 120˚ beam width.
I did find an LED floodlight with a nominal 90˚ vertical beamwidth - but they fitted it with a "speckled" cover which diffuses it and so it still lights up the neighbours house over the fence :mad:
 
I've found ye olde 500W halogen fixed at the gutter of 2 story house, pointing down, is fine. It stops the light going to others' windows, and the area of the sensor coverage is also good.
Only problem was that because I wanted it to light the side of the building as well as the front, I mounted it on a twisted galv joist strap projecting sideways about 6 inches. That wasn't stiff enough so it was a bit bouncy in high winds. 30W LED PIR version (Toolstation £18) will replace it with a stiffer strap.
Looking from above - anyone got a better mounting idea?


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