Painting Breeze Blocks Garage Wall

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Hi thought i'd set about Painting the inside of the garage white as i've seen a few threads and thought it would brighten up the garage.

I've bought a couple of tins of White Deco Aldi Masonry Paint.

I've not long started and i've already used 1/2 a tub and i've hardly got anywhere :eek: . I've been using a pile roller and a brush to get in between the gaps.

Any tips

Is it best to water down?

I'm painting straight onto breeze blocks

At this rate its going to cost me a lot of ££££
 

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I would definitely thin down the paint, but if you are trying to get it to cover in 1 coat, thinning the paint with water will mean you would have to apply 2 coats
 
I would definitely thin down the paint, but if you are trying to get it to cover in 1 coat, thinning the paint with water will mean you would have to apply 2 coats
I'd rather get it done in 1 coat.

It's going to take a while due to all the holes.

Thinking I'll need another 4 tins at least at this rate
 
From memory when I painted my (red brick) garage I used a watered down coat, which sealed the brick, didn't take too long, but had a pink tinge to it. Then once it. Was dry, the second coat went on fine and covered better. I think the two coat solution is quicker than trying to get a good finish with a thick first coat

Because I was going to seal the floor, I wasn't worried about mess so banged on and then applied garage floor paint, it makes the heck of a difference compared to a brick garage and grey concrete floor if you spend time in there
 
on such an absorbent surface as bare blocks, you must apply the first coat (or two) with a brush, thinned well with water. The wall will suck the brush dry and the paint will disappear. You have to brush it well into holes, roughness and mortar joints. You can use a soft sweeping brush for speed. By the time you have worked you way round the room, the first coat will be dry and you can apply the second.

You will know it is properly sealed and primed when the wall no longer sucks your brush dry. Only then can you start to apply unthinned paint (you can use a long-pile roller if you want). Otherwise the wall will suck the liquid content away and the pigment will lie on the surface. So it will not adhere to the wall properly. The same applies to bare plaster.

BTW don't put glue on the walls.

i use masonry paint on garage walls because it is durable and you can wash it down with a wet brush or occasionally a hosepipe if you want. you needn't buy an expensive quality brand because it will not be exposed to weather. But avoid "value" or "basic" paints.
 
How much should I dilute the paint? I'm doing it in stages so I don't have stuff everywhere in the garage.

I've put a few sheets down to keep the paint off the carpet.

I'm in two minds whether to do the red brick side after
 
How much should I dilute the paint?

on absorbent concrete blocks, i'd start with 20% water.

If the mist coat does not sink into the wall immediately, add more.

it goes on like milk, and takes very little time with a large soft brush, so you can apply a second mist coat as soon as the first is dry (which will not take long).

Once you have sealed the surface, the brush will not drag, so it is quicker and easier.
 
on absorbent concrete blocks, i'd start with 20% water.

If the mist coat does not sink into the wall immediately, add more.

it goes on like milk, and takes very little time with a large soft brush, so you can apply a second mist coat as soon as the first is dry (which will not take long).
Cheers I've just ordered a extra long pile roller hoping that'll help

Haha yeah it's a garage we had a new carpet so I used the off cuts and underlay in the garage
 
All done finally I'm unsure if I should paint the last wall
IMG-20190505-WA0006.jpeg
 

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