Painting over vinyl paper, good idea?
- Thread starter morphe
- Start date
B
breezer
no
B
breezer
sorry, it was a bit short wasn't it. 
this is just my opinion
I wouldn't do it because its vinyl wallpaper,
paint may not go on evenly
may not adhere properly to vinyl
may need more coats than "normal"
very hard to get it off when you change your mind
"pattern" in vinyl may show through
and lastly
its not how its done.
if you are going to do a job, take your time do it right, and do it well.
the thing with most jobs especailly p & d its 90% preperation and 5% persperation and 5% painting
it will look much better if you do it right, then when asked you can proudly say "we did that" (took a long time, but we think the result speaks for itself)
this is just my opinion
I wouldn't do it because its vinyl wallpaper,
paint may not go on evenly
may not adhere properly to vinyl
may need more coats than "normal"
very hard to get it off when you change your mind
"pattern" in vinyl may show through
and lastly
its not how its done.
if you are going to do a job, take your time do it right, and do it well.
the thing with most jobs especailly p & d its 90% preperation and 5% persperation and 5% painting
it will look much better if you do it right, then when asked you can proudly say "we did that" (took a long time, but we think the result speaks for itself)
in addition to breezer's comments.
if you remove the textured paper, fill any voids and repaint the wall. The whole room will appear larger as the removal of texture tends to visually push the wall away as there are no details for your eye to focus on.
Basically, excluding unframed mirrors, the more objects on the wall the closer it appears, the flatter and more uncluttered the wall is the further away it appears.
When buying the paint carefully select the finish, eggshell or matt are best for walls as they hide flaws and the muted colours ( beiges etc..) increase the recession effect.
Measure the wall area, calculate the paint requirement based upon the manufacturers recommendation. I personally buy I extra 2.5 litre tin as next years touch up paint. Nothing worse than a nicely painted wall that gets marked for which you have no spare paint of the correct batch number.
Suggested painting sequence.
Ceiling, ceiling rose, cornice, walls, skirting, doors.
if you remove the textured paper, fill any voids and repaint the wall. The whole room will appear larger as the removal of texture tends to visually push the wall away as there are no details for your eye to focus on.
Basically, excluding unframed mirrors, the more objects on the wall the closer it appears, the flatter and more uncluttered the wall is the further away it appears.
When buying the paint carefully select the finish, eggshell or matt are best for walls as they hide flaws and the muted colours ( beiges etc..) increase the recession effect.
Measure the wall area, calculate the paint requirement based upon the manufacturers recommendation. I personally buy I extra 2.5 litre tin as next years touch up paint. Nothing worse than a nicely painted wall that gets marked for which you have no spare paint of the correct batch number.
Suggested painting sequence.
Ceiling, ceiling rose, cornice, walls, skirting, doors.
morphe said:
I am surprised that no-one here asked how old your house is!
If you live in an old house then using non-breathable wall coverings is a BAD idea. There are Victorian houses round here that all have damp problems caused by 1960s "modernisation". What makes it worse is that insurance and mortgage companies are demanding damp treatments that are unsuitable for such properties. So, I would agree that you should rip it all out.
Note of experience: I spent the end of a summer holiday as a teenager getting several-times-painted-vinyl wallpaper off the walls of my parents' new house. It sucked. If you paint over it, you are condemning the children of the next owners to a week of anguish!
