Pallet wood wall wall weight

CrazeUK

CrazeUK

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Hey guys.

My partner moved into a new build apartment a while ago.

She's asked me to do "something in the lounge where there is a 8m stretch of wall. The height is the standard 2.4m.

I've decided to use reclaimed pallet wood to clad a 2.6m wide by 2.4 meter high area in the middle of the wall.

My plan is to use 5 x 65x40mm batons (floor to ceiling, 65 side flush to wall) to mount the cladding on. This will allow it to be led accent lit, as well as give clearance for plugs in sockets behind it.

I have noticed the studs are unevenly spaced on the wall, and can only find 4 in the area I am working.

I have used a Bosch GMS120 wall detector, but the results are in conclusive.

Questions:
1. I tried to drill a whole where one of the studs is, the drill bit isn't pushing all the way through, and a screw isn't going all the way in (makes slight screeching noise). Does this mean they will be steel studs? -
b. any special considerations?
c. How do I put screws into these?
​
2. I have weighed 5 planks of the cladding, it weighs 3.8 kilos. I have counted around 75 pieces for the whole area (estimate 57 kilo).
a. Will the wall be able to take the weight in my construction method?
b. Anything I need to consider do?
​
3. There is a long bank of electrical points, 1x single, 2x double and ammmtmgaatgmp point, they are all close together within the area. I have tried to use the Bosch detector to find the cable drops, but again no use. By tapping on the wall, I think there is a stud between the communications point and 2 gang socket. Would I be safe to assume the cables will be strait dropped? So safe to drill in the area?

Pallet wood to be used - I plan on using lint seed oil to bring out the colour and seal it.


Studs behind wall socket


Area to be cladded including studs
(Brown = Area to be cladded, Red = Studs, Blue = sockets)


Any help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:
CrazeUK said:
1. I tried to drill a whole where one of the studs is, the drill bit isn't pushing all the way through, and a screw isn't going all the way in (makes slight screeching noise). Does this mean they will be steel studs? -
a. any special considerations?
b. How do I put screws into these?​
Click to expand...
​
As it's new build it's highly likely that the walls will be framed out onto metal - faster to install than timber. To fix to that you need a screw which will pierce metal. Look for a drywall screw with a fine thread (coarse thread ones are designed to fix to timber). Ideally also needs a relatively high speed drill (2500rpm plus)

CrazeUK said:
2. I have weighed 5 planks of the cladding, it weighs 3.8 kilos. I have counted around 75 pieces for the whole area (estimate 57 kilo).
a. Will the wall be able to take the weight in my construction method?
b. Anything I need to consider do?​
Click to expand...
​
I don't see that being a problem. If the wall were double-clad the weight would be about an extra 37kg for every 8 x 4ft sheet of plasterboard. Double cladding is often used in fire-rated constructions
​
CrazeUK said:
3. There is a long bank of electrical points, 1x single, 2x double and ammmtmgaatgmp point, they are all close together within the area. I have tried to use the Bosch detector to find the cable drops, but again no use. By tapping on the wall, I think there is a stud between the communications point and 2 gang socket. Would I be safe to assume the cables will be strait dropped? So safe to drill in the area?
Click to expand...
You very rarely get cable drops anything other than vertical in new builds. It's fairly safe to assume that yours are the same

CrazeUK said:
Pallet wood to be used - I plan on using lint seed oil to bring out the colour and seal it.
Click to expand...
The linseed oil will need to be the boiled variety - raw linseed oil cures very, very slowly (almost never). Apply with a rag (light coloured, well-washed cotton, e.g. old T-shirt, knickers, etc), but at the end of the session when you've finished, open out the rag and lay flat on some newspaper to dry. This is because boiled linseed oil dries/cures exothermically and if you leave the rag scrunched up it can get very hot and possibly catch fire. Hence the need to open it out and not to just leave it scrunched up and throw it in the rubbish bin. This is the safest way to deal with it (and how it's been done for generations)
 
CrazeUK said:
Would I be safe to assume the cables will be strait dropped? So safe to drill in the area?
Click to expand...
Definitely not, remove the socket tops & see which way the cables run, likely to be horizontal between the 13A sockets.
 
G[GALLERY=media, 102250]IMG_4184 by foxhole posted 2 Dec 2018 at 1:04 PM[/GALLERY]
Did similar in my bedroom, finished with Danish oil after planing and sanding.Mixed a variety of wood dye with it to mix up the colours.
 
JobAndKnock said:
​
As it's new build it's highly likely that the walls will be framed out onto metal - faster to install than timber. To fix to that you need a screw which will pierce metal. Look for a drywall screw with a fine thread (coarse thread ones are designed to fix to timber). Ideally also needs a relatively high speed drill (2500rpm plus)


​
I don't see that being a problem. If the wall were double-clad the weight would be about an extra 37kg for every 8 x 4ft sheet of plasterboard. Double cladding is often used in fire-rated constructions
​

You very rarely get cable drops anything other than vertical in new builds. It's fairly safe to assume that yours are the same


The linseed oil will need to be the boiled variety - raw linseed oil cures very, very slowly (almost never). Apply with a rag (light coloured, well-washed cotton, e.g. old T-shirt, knickers, etc), but at the end of the session when you've finished, open out the rag and lay flat on some newspaper to dry. This is because boiled linseed oil dries/cures exothermically and if you leave the rag scrunched up it can get very hot and possibly catch fire. Hence the need to open it out and not to just leave it scrunched up and throw it in the rubbish bin. This is the safest way to deal with it (and how it's been done for generations)
Click to expand...

Hey JobAndKnock Thaks for the detailed response. Thanks for the re-assurance and iw ill take on board the Linseed oil advice. Previously when i did it, i used the disposible cloths you get from supermarkets, then washed it before throwing it.
 
foxhole said:
G[GALLERY=media, 102250]IMG_4184 by foxhole posted 2 Dec 2018 at 1:04 PM[/GALLERY]
Did similar in my bedroom, finished with Danish oil after planing and sanding.Mixed a variety of wood dye with it to mix up the colours.
Click to expand...

It looks good. Why did you choose Danish oil?
Can any stain be used?

I was originally hoping to use the original colour of the pieces, but once sanding i have realised its too light. I did contemplate wood stain.
 
jj4091 said:
Definitely not, remove the socket tops & see which way the cables run, likely to be horizontal between the 13A sockets.
Click to expand...

I didnt plan to put screws on level with the sockets any where along the wall. I just dont like the idea of the messy repair after. I will definitely check before i start.
 
Danish oil is ideal for internal timber, you will need oil based dye, (Rustins) lots of new dye is water based so does not mix with oil.
Mixing reduces the colour by around 50-70% so take that into account .
Mixing with oil before use gives a very even finish .
 
foxhole said:
Danish oil is ideal for internal timber, you will need oil based dye, (Rustins) lots of new dye is water based so does not mix with oil.
Mixing reduces the colour by around 50-70% so take that into account .
Mixing with oil before use gives a very even finish .
Click to expand...

I see, i will do that. I wonder if you can buy smaller tubs of the dye. I can buy a mix then.
I was only planning on using Linseed oil as i already have a 1 litre bottle up north i can bring lol.
 
So I started on the wall yesterday. Put the 5 batons up. I have placed 5 screws in each baton, some with dry wall plugs, some with wall plugs into the breeze block. It seems string enough. I guess i will find out once its complete.

I feel really confused about how they have constructed the whole wall. There is only 1 solid vertical stud i can find in the area. There are numerous horizontal ones. Additionally at the top and bottom of the wall, behind the plaster board there is a small cavity, then what feels like breeze block (dark grey dust). The strange thing is, i can feel the same substance in random parts behind the wall. I can only think they have cemented the plasterboard on. Is that a thing?

So the hardest thing i have found thus far is how to keep each plank of wood perfectly level as some of them are not cut strait.

Here are some pics:



With TV and lamp for perspective


I wasn't allowed to complete it today as the Mrs has embargoed me using the mitre saw or hammer after 8 (for the sake of the neighbours).

Nearly forgot to add, because the batons are around 43cm (+/-2cm for secure screws), and the pallet wood lengths are 100cm / 110cm / 120cm, i am fid there is a lot of wastage and piece held onto only 1 baton.
 
Update: I finished the wall. In the process of writing up on the Projects forum, so will upload pics there. I did notice one of the battons (the bottom screw) was loose, i think when i have been banging the nails in (in absence of a nail gun), i may have hit it loose. i am HOPING this was the only one.
Overall it feels sturdy. Is there any way i can test it?
 
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