Pendocks boxing in and beading

[Deleted member 174758]

Had mitre saw calibrated but one side of architrave still not great and external corner of skirting wasn't perfect used two 30mm lost heads on them. Caulked it up

So basically you couldn't be arrised to learn how to do it youself, and despite it not being right you went ahead and did the job, generating sub-standard mitres which you couldn't even be arrised to correct with a block plane, or glue together with Mitre Mate or the like. Your mitres are an utter disgrace considering they are paid work - and you should know that only a cowboy tradesman caulks mitres. Shame on you!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Sorry about the outburst, but I've not long completed the snagging on an apartment build. Considering the price of the apartment, the quality of some of the work was abysmal, from downright poor design details (down to the architect, that), through incorrect installation (leaving me convinced that many joiners haven't a clue how to install fire doors to the current required standard), to massive numbers of "errors of detail" (from missing fire collars which needed to be retro fitted inside walls, to visible writing on tile edges which was removed with a solvent). But, BUT, the architrave mitres (all 400 plus of them) were all tight throughout and didn't need any bloody caulk!!!

 

[Keitai]

You say that you've already installed Pendock - so you should know what you are doing with it. You should also know, as a tradesman, that you never install anything by fixing it to laminate flooring. So you need to either trim back the laminate (which I happen to think is inadvisable, or you need to fix the Pendock back to the wall so that it doesn't depend on being fixed to the laminate, or you need to find anothet solution.

As to beading, you can cut even the smallest beading with a mitre saw providing you use a fine enough saw blade - and if spelching is a problem then just make up an auxilliary base and backing fence (which are an L-profile) to deal with that. Alternatively, consider the old school approach of a mitre block and a fine tooth hand beading saw. 16 gauge nailers can be too large to fix very small beadings (you risk splitting it), so you may need to consider smaller gauge pins (18 gauge or even 23 gauge) or find another fixing method

And before anyone says I am being unfair I'll point out that the OP is a tradesman and is being paid to do this work, so...

Did beading job. Tried cutting with wooden auxilliary base but ended up just cutting normally. Mitres were good, used mitre mate, I worked out that the beading needs positioning on chopsaw before cutting the same way that it'll rest on wall. Used 30mm nails but changed to 25mm panel pins. Main problem is the hole left in beading after hammering it in

 

[HERTS P&D]

It looks worse than before you started. I feel sorry for the customer.

Andy