Pipework Dilemma

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mortarbo

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As 'A' in attached. Got an existing setup where isolation valve and connected water pipe are in a boxed and tiled area.

Theres also existing concrete above (gap shown).

Wanting a way (as 'B') to put some sort of thread connected double elbow (ideally without pipework between) and another isolation valve thread connected to elbow as dont want to break in to boxed and tiled existing area. Cant move existing isolation valve, so only got thread end to work with.

Piccy attached
 

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Reads like some kind of very difficult English language comprehension test!

I have failed on it!
 
Need some yellow coloured elbows which can be thread connected . Yellow shown in attached picture.. Sorry :-)
 
I only put a new blue isolation valve as wanting to connect a new flexi tap pipe to it. Unless 2 isolation valves is bad practice?. I suppose something that has same double screw ends as an isolation valve, but no actual valve if such thing existed?.

In fact its similar to thread connecting a new flexi pipe to existing isolation valve, but flexi pipe needing thread ends both the same!!. Then something to connect to end of the flexi pipe so another flexi pipe could be thread connected to the previously mentioned 'something' joining piece.

Think of it as making a tap flexi pipe 'double length' but no new copper pipe needed :)

So .... how to "connect 2 flexi tails together?" for extra length. Then 1 end to mono tap and other to existing isolation valve
 
Last edited:
1. Flexi shouldn't be connected directly to an isolation valve as the sharp edge of the bit where the compression olive sits can damage the sealing washer in the flexi connector. Bit its often done and people get away with it. Correct method is to use a small piece of copper and a 15mm / 1/2" male iron or a purpose made fitting.
2. If you can solder, consider:
a. Remove existing compression fitting. (Water off of course).
b. Small length of copper to an elbow. (End up pointing upwards)
c. Street elbow into elbow b. (Ends up pointing forwards / to the right in your picture).
d. Small piece of copper forwards.
e. New isolation valve onto end copper d.
f. Small piece of copper forwards with 15mm / 1/2" male iron to flexi.
3. If you can't solder, consider 2. using compression fittings, but you'd need to measure carefully to make sure it fits.

Use a good quality isolation valve (e.g. Pegler), a full bore one if water not at a decent pressure.
 
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