Plasterboard - dot & dab vs. plaster on wall?

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dogfonos

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Would appreciate advice on this issue...

I'm about to have a small extension built onto our home. It's been suggested that the internal walls (constructed from concrete block) of the new build are lined with plasterboard using the 'dot & dab' method rather than being plastered directly. Can someone kindly explain advantages/disadvantages of each method please?
 
Dot n Dab = faster, easier, less skill required, i.e. easier to get right. Can get voids behind boards that can make future wall fixings tricky.

Float & Set - requires more skill, easier to mess up, more time, but no voids.

Dot n Dab all day long for me - others will disagree
 
And yet traditional plaster has a solidity and smoothness that is reassuring, comforting.

It does introduce a lot of water though and needs a longer drying out time before decorating.

You might want to consider having the same type of finish you have in the original house.
 
Wet plaster is in my book a far superior finish, it helps with air tightness and it much harder wearing. But it really is cost prohibitive that's why PB was invented, to de-skill and make labor cheaper.
 
Thanks for your views.

The bit I don't understand is how come 'dot & dab' is that much quicker to do? Doesn't the plasterboard require a skim coat of plaster anyway which would take time?
 
Two-coat work (browning +finish) was the traditional way and will give best results in terms of finish, but is rarely done today. As above, it is messy, time-consuming, takes longer to dry and needs a degree of skill.
Dot-&-dab is quicker, takes less skill, and is less messy. It dries much quicker because the board finish is only a very thin skim coat; it also improves insulation a little because of the air-gap, but again as above, there is the possibility of increased air leakage if the boards are not glued all round.
Swings and roundabouts.
 
There is another approach - fixing timber battens or metal resilient bars to the walls to which boards are applied. Both trap air which acts as an insulator as well as bypassing cold bridging. Res bars additionally give extra sound deadening as they transmit less sound. Requires different skills to install than dot and dab but is a lot more consistent IMHO and makes a lot less mess. Use with taper edge board, fibre glass scrim tape and jointing compound is far faster than either of the other techniques although decorating needs to be done with a lining paper first. Will also work with a thin skim which tends to dry in 1 of 3 days ready to apply 2nd fix joinery
 
JobAndKnock said:
There is another approach - fixing timber battens or metal resilient bars to the walls to which boards are applied. Both trap air which acts as an insulator as well as bypassing cold bridging. Res bars additionally give extra sound deadening as they transmit less sound. Requires different skills to install than dot and dab but is a lot more consistent IMHO and makes a lot less mess. Use with taper edge board, fibre glass scrim tape and jointing compound is far faster than either of the other techniques although decorating needs to be done with a lining paper first. Will also work with a thin skim which tends to dry in 1 of 3 days ready to apply 2nd fix joinery
Click to expand...

Actually, that is the modern equivalent of the old-fashioned way when building top-quality houses; the plastering would be completely separate from the structural wall, being built with lath-and-plaster on independent studwork.
Just musing:)
 
Thanks all for your inputs. As I now understand the options, I'm better placed to make a decision. Cheers.
 
JobAndKnock said:
There is another approach - fixing timber battens or metal resilient bars to the walls to which boards are applied. Both trap air which acts as an insulator as well as bypassing cold bridging. Res bars additionally give extra sound deadening as they transmit less sound. Requires different skills to install than dot and dab but is a lot more consistent IMHO and makes a lot less mess. Use with taper edge board, fibre glass scrim tape and jointing compound is far faster than either of the other techniques although decorating needs to be done with a lining paper first. Will also work with a thin skim which tends to dry in 1 of 3 days ready to apply 2nd fix joinery
Click to expand...
Sorry, I know this is an old post but I was just wondering what this technique is called, please? I want to look it up...
 
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