Plasterboard edge bead?

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Hi,

I am in the process of undertaking my first DIY project in my new home. I am building a false tray ceiling - similar to below:
1710713752154.png


I have a few questions with regards to the most appropriate edge beading for the plasterboards, see below diagram with a section of the tray ceiling. My questions are in red text.
(I am leaving the exposed area as it is not visible and it gives access to cabling.)

1710713820051.png


The 'J' bead which I had in mind is the below, my only slight concern is that the rear edge will need to wedge between the plasterboard and the timber and it may offset it?? Or is the thickness so small that it doesn't matter?
1710714158148.png


Thank you in advance
 
As a DIY'er, I wouldn't use anything for the top piece of plasterboard - presumably your ceiling is already plastered; just the plain plasterboard and some caulk along the joint should be fine, the far corner won't really be seen anyway.
And for other bead, a 'J' section would nicely protect the upper edge of the plasterboard.
Alternatively, if the finished board edge was laid upwards, a stop bead could be used, avoiding any issues with the timber, although the thickness of the J bead shouldn't really matter.
 
Hi,

I am in the process of undertaking my first DIY project in my new home. I am building a false tray ceiling - similar to below:
View attachment 337019

I have a few questions with regards to the most appropriate edge beading for the plasterboards, see below diagram with a section of the tray ceiling. My questions are in red text.
(I am leaving the exposed area as it is not visible and it gives access to cabling.)

View attachment 337020

The 'J' bead which I had in mind is the below, my only slight concern is that the rear edge will need to wedge between the plasterboard and the timber and it may offset it?? Or is the thickness so small that it doesn't matter?
View attachment 337022

Thank you in advance
Thin coat stop bead. Or just use another thin set angle bead as you wont see the top and it will behave better.
 
As a DIY'er, I wouldn't use anything for the top piece of plasterboard - presumably your ceiling is already plastered; just the plain plasterboard and some caulk along the joint should be fine, the far corner won't really be seen anyway.
And for other bead, a 'J' section would nicely protect the upper edge of the plasterboard.
Alternatively, if the finished board edge was laid upwards, a stop bead could be used, avoiding any issues with the timber, although the thickness of the J bead shouldn't really matter.

Thin coat stop bead. Or just use another thin set angle bead as you wont see the top and it will behave better.

Thank you both for your feedback. Below is my plan based on your suggestions. Caulk the top edge, and angle bead where it connects to the timber, mainly because I am struggling to source some J beads and I have plenty of angle beads laying around - so since it is fit for purpose then I may as well make use of them.

1710800490125.png



Further to above, I have an irregular wall where the plasterboard meets, in some areas the gap is up to 10mm. Should I first mud this, then fill, tape, and then finish? I wont actually be doing the skimming as I plan to get a pro to do this but thought that it would be good to get some suggestions. Thanks
1710803142641.png
 
Thank you both for your feedback. Below is my plan based on your suggestions. Caulk the top edge, and angle bead where it connects to the timber, mainly because I am struggling to source some J beads and I have plenty of angle beads laying around - so since it is fit for purpose then I may as well make use of them.

View attachment 337131


Further to above, I have an irregular wall where the plasterboard meets, in some areas the gap is up to 10mm. Should I first mud this, then fill, tape, and then finish? I wont actually be doing the skimming as I plan to get a pro to do this but thought that it would be good to get some suggestions. Thanks
View attachment 337135
Let the pro take care of the gaps. You faffing about with gear could create dusty edges where the scrim tape won’t stick.
 
If you're paying a plasterer I'd leave the beads to them. Every plasterer I've hired has told me they want to fix the beads themselves.
 
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