Has anyone got or used a tongue and groove machine with engineered wood boards? I tried cutting a groove using the table saw, made it, but it is not a simple task, and I presume the tongue could be done with the router. But if I had a machine then I'd be able to use many more offcuts (eg removing sections with knots etc)
Portable/small tongue and groove machine, engineered wood flooring
- Thread starter akist
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A router for both, no?
I would have thought that you need a tongue and groove router set
www.rutlands.com
That will give you male and female parts via two seperate router bits.
I would however recommend that you use two seperate routers. Once you set them up correctly, you won't need to worry about heights/depths being out of kilter.
TCT Router Bit Set - Tongue & Groove | Next Day Delivery
These tongue & groove router bits are used for the fast and accurate production of strong, interlocking joints with an increased surface area for glue application, typically used for the construction of panelling, table tops and strip flooring. Each bit features diamond ground, micro-grain...
www.rutlands.com
That will give you male and female parts via two seperate router bits.
I would however recommend that you use two seperate routers. Once you set them up correctly, you won't need to worry about heights/depths being out of kilter.
general comments
assuming this is to use offcuts in the floor by cutting the a txg on the ends
you will have to get an identical groove sized cutter to match
you need to avoid any joint within 300mm off the adjacent plank so rules out any offcut shorter than 600mm except end off run
assuming this is to use offcuts in the floor by cutting the a txg on the ends
you will have to get an identical groove sized cutter to match
you need to avoid any joint within 300mm off the adjacent plank so rules out any offcut shorter than 600mm except end off run
About 50% of the boards are 500mm, so my maximum joint overlap is 250mm. There are 2 main reasons I might want to T&G the boards. First I am trying desperately to remove sections with knots, leaving me with two pieces that can only be used at the start or the end of a row. Secondly I may need to trim boards along their length for a full row, as the rooms are very irregular, to avoid having very small pieces against walls.
what does the manufacturer recommend for overlap
you start at one end and the offcut starts row 2
iff the next row will be more than say 10% less than recommended you cut another board to start and alternate the end offcuts
if you do use short lengths, reformed never use them in high traffic high load areas
you start at one end and the offcut starts row 2
iff the next row will be more than say 10% less than recommended you cut another board to start and alternate the end offcuts
if you do use short lengths, reformed never use them in high traffic high load areas
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