Power drop

Joined
29 Jun 2011
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
I had installed incandescent puck lights connected via dimmer switches under the kitchen cabinets. They worked well, but they got very hot and burned out frequently. I had 5 40 watt pucks and 2 60 watt larger style pucks. Total power consumption was about 320 watts. I decided that I should go green and install lights that consumed less power so I replaced them with 6 strips of LED lights. The total power consumption of the 6 strips was reported to be 10 watts. There is an inline transformer that cuts the voltage from 120 to 5 volts. I did not replace the dimmers, even though the instructions said that they were not to be used with dimmer switches. After several days/weeks of working perfectly, they started to blink. I assumed that it was the dimmers that were causing the problems so I replaced the dimmers with a standard switch. The problem did not go away, so I then assumed that perhaps I had damaged the inline transformers, so I purchased a new set of fluorescent lights, total wattage was going to be 55, so still an improvement.

I also decided to buy a voltage tester because I messed up the wiring and I couldn't remember what was hot and what was not. I tested the voltage on the main power feed and got a reading of 120 volts, perfect.
I then tested the power from the just tested hot (black) to the black of the supply line to the 1st transformer and it was only 90 volts. I then tested the hot to the black of the 2nd supply line and only got a reading of 60 volts.

Is the voltage drop a sign that I have indeed damaged the inline transformers? or is something else going on here? I am using 14 gauge copper throughout.
 
have you wired the transformers (they are not really a transformer they are are a switch mode power supply)

they should be wired in paralell

IE hot and grounded conductor to one transformer
then hot and grounded conductor from the first transformer to the next
and so on,

so you have the following
2 x hots in the first
2 x grounded conductors in the first

then the same in the second

and one hot and one grounded in the third

remove the dimmer switch from the circuit, it will damge the transformers!!

you should now get 120vac on all input supplies, dont try to test the output unless you have the LED lights connected, (you wont read anything with them disconnected)

oh and your cable size is ok, Romex cable i hope
?
Oasis
 
Yes, romex-3 is used.

You have answered the question when you replied that the transformers (power supply) would be damaged by the dimmers.

It probably would have been clearer if I had said that I was going to connect 4 separate outlets from a single input power supply. All outlets are wired in parallel. I then installed 2 switches to control 2 of the 4 outlets. This is quite common when one wants to control a lamp from a wall switch. The LEDs are essentially very low wattage lamps.

There is a 3 prong (blade) plug on the transformer that is plugged into an individual outlet. So yes each transformer is also in parallel.
 
as you posted above, your have 4 recepticals
each one feeding a transformer
subsequentley feeding LED lights

and some or all of them are controlled via switch to each light fitting

but some or all of them flicker

can you check ALL connections to the recepticals, and or power connections before the transformers are fitted,

also, for test reasons, remove the lights (or bring a wnader lead in) and test the existing light fittings via another supply receptical in another room, or on another receptical,
please ensure its on a gfci of an afci to prevent potential electric shock

check them that way, check your supply to each outlet that you are using for the lights, and switches as well.

if the lights work from the wander lead, and dont work from the fixed recepticals, its a fault witht eh wiring

hope this helps

Oasis
 
Back
Top