Re-Roof in Process - Please advise

Fred Chow

Fred Chow

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Hi All

Im wondering if you can advise please.

I have attached some photos of my roof currently being re-roofed. It was previously a slate roof with no felt but



Ive noticed the roofer has used plain clear silicone to connect small cut tiles. Is this correct? (It doesn't seem to be right which is what initially made me think this chap isnt a professional roofer There is silicone on the tiles that hes dropped etc, will that cause any issues?

The edge of the roof doesnt seem finished. Should there be more smooth cuts added and how are the smaller cuts meant to be stuck to the bigger tile

The other thing Im not sure if the two roofs are joined together properly. Some of my concrete tiles seem to lift up slightly.

20210604_184537.jpg







Can you tell me if the roof has been joined properly with my neighbours roof.

Also my ridge tiles will be fitted with a dry ridge system but my neighbours will still have their old ridges that are mortared in. Is that OK?





 
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Someone will reply to your questions

I wouldn't have thought silicone wasn't a professional fix,

But how come you had new slates installed and not re-used the slates removed?

Slates don't have a time limit, it's the fixings that fail causing the need for a re-roof.
 
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I don't know much about roofing but I thought they generally used tile and a half tiles at the verge.
 
Please don't tell me he came from checkatrade, mybuilder, rated people.......
 
I know nothing about roofs so I’m probably talking out of my arris but if your tiles are twice as thick as your adjoining neighbours tiles, they will be higher, won’t they? Why didn’t you use the same slate as next door? Regardless of that, it looks a proper bodge job!
 
I'm not a roofer. If I recall correctly there should be a roof tile available which is one and half times the width of a standard tile. Concrete tiles are much more heavy than slate. Have you had your roof structure checked by a structural engineer to see if it can cope with the added weight. One of the photographs shows all the timber laths butting up on one roof timber. Not very good practice at all as the number of nails driven into the roof timber could cause it to split over time. Check that the roofer has installed soakers for the lead flashing. Again if I recall correctly flat tiles should have soakers - Stepped flashing (nhbccampaigns.co.uk) Where the tiles butt with the neighbouring roof there should be a proprietary system installed. The detail shown in the photograph isn't good. Tiles should not be stuck back together using silicone. A dry ridge system if better than a mortar solution. However, I'm not convinced you're roofing knows more about his chosen trade than I do and I think there's some work to correct before the ridge's are installed. I can't see if the roofer has used a 5U Felt at the eaves. The last tile should sit over the centre line of the gutter, that being the deepest part of the gutter. A 5U felt should be used and lapped into the gutter and under the breathable felt - I'm assuming the main felt is breathable as it's blue - as I've said I'm not a roofer.

AiY
 
Well it does look a bit of a mess

Silicone on a new roof…. not really
Dry ridge butting up to wet…. not an issue if done correctly

Other points
Did you speak to building control re changing slate to concrete
Each tile should be nailed
Tile and half not made for concrete interlocking tiles
Soakers are not used with concrete interlocking, but secret gutters should be used under the cover flashing at the stacks
 
Hi thanks everyone for replying

I have got building control involved so hopefully they will point out any issues.

In regards to the questions:

I was advised that my roof needed replacing in order to do a loft conversion. The builder recommended this tile.

The tiles are redland 90 slate grey - Im getting conflicting info if tile and a half is stocked/available. Please can someone confirm.
 
Notch7 said:
I don't know much about roofing but I thought they generally used tile and a half tiles at the verge.
Click to expand...
Is tile and a half available in redland 90 slate grey? What is the alternative if it is not and how is the smaller piece fitted. I know I can use a dry verge system. Will that improve the aesthetics?
 
AsleepInYorkshire said:
I'm not a roofer. If I recall correctly there should be a roof tile available which is one and half times the width of a standard tile. Concrete tiles are much more heavy than slate. Have you had your roof structure checked by a structural engineer to see if it can cope with the added weight. One of the photographs shows all the timber laths butting up on one roof timber. Not very good practice at all as the number of nails driven into the roof timber could cause it to split over time. Check that the roofer has installed soakers for the lead flashing. Again if I recall correctly flat tiles should have soakers - Stepped flashing (nhbccampaigns.co.uk) Where the tiles butt with the neighbouring roof there should be a proprietary system installed. The detail shown in the photograph isn't good. Tiles should not be stuck back together using silicone. A dry ridge system if better than a mortar solution. However, I'm not convinced you're roofing knows more about his chosen trade than I do and I think there's some work to correct before the ridge's are installed. I can't see if the roofer has used a 5U Felt at the eaves. The last tile should sit over the centre line of the gutter, that being the deepest part of the gutter. A 5U felt should be used and lapped into the gutter and under the breathable felt - I'm assuming the main felt is breathable as it's blue - as I've said I'm not a roofer.

AiY
Click to expand...


Please can you tell me what you mean by this and which photo you are talking about;

One of the photographs shows all the timber laths butting up on one roof timber. Not very good practice at all as the number of nails driven into the roof timber could cause it to split over time.

Please can you also confirm if the 5u felt is required only near the felt near the gutter only. Is it doing the same thing as felt support tray. Any diagrams of how it should be installed
 
IMG-20210527-WA0006.jpg


This photograph.

The timber laths should be "staggered" so that they do not all butt up over one joist. This prevents to two nails being driven into the roof joist and effectively creating a weakness which could split. (Ignore the spacing dimension in the sketch below)

7.2.17.png



Yes 5U felt is used at the bottom of the roof tiles.

5U EAVE SUPPORT FELT - Pitched Roofing Products Dublin Ireland (nordroofs.ie)

You can also use solid plastic eaves trays

Felt Support Eaves Protector 1500mm Support Tray Fascia Sagging Roof Felt X 5 | eBay

It been a few years since I specified anything to do with a roof - you can obtain secret gutters which are easier than lead soakers - apologies I was a little out of date :-) (180) How to Join a Roof Install an Abutment Soaker / Secret Gutter - YouTube

main_56e5bd6171c51.jpg


AiY
 
Fred Chow said:
Hi thanks everyone for replying

I have got building control involved so hopefully they will point out any issues.

In regards to the questions:

I was advised that my roof needed replacing in order to do a loft conversion. The builder recommended this tile.

The tiles are redland 90 slate grey - Im getting conflicting info if tile and a half is stocked/available. Please can someone confirm.
Click to expand...

Can I check it's a Redland 90 please?

Thank you

AiY
 
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