Rear Pads Change Golf Mk7

freddiemercurystwin

freddiemercurystwin

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Golf Mk7 2013 2ltr diesel, so on Friday my rear nearside brakes started sounding a bit gaunchy, on inspection I can see at least one pad has nothing left and is starting to grind the disc, thinking I might DIY it and having a little Google reveals the car needs to be connected up to gizmo of some description to reset the electronic handbrake (or something like that). Is there anyway to avoid having to plug it into a gizmo?

I suppose I may aswell get the discs done too as they seem to come up as an advisory on every MOT.
 
freddiemercurystwin said:
Golf Mk7 2013 2ltr diesel, so on Friday my rear nearside brakes started sounding a bit gaunchy, on inspection I can see at least one pad has nothing left and is starting to grind the disc, thinking I might DIY it and having a little Google reveals the car needs to be connected up to gizmo of some description to reset the electronic handbrake (or something like that). Is there anyway to avoid having to plug it into a gizmo?

I suppose I may aswell get the discs done too as they seem to come up as an advisory on every MOT.
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Yes. Remove the wiring plug and the two bolts that hold the electronic parking brake on from the rear of the calliper. You can then, with a socket or even your fingers, screw the handbrake spindle in clockwise, as far as it will go and then just push the piston back in the normal way. I have the tool to do it electronically but I just did it the way I described when I changed the pads and discs on our A3 because I’d lent the tool to a mate. You don’t need to reset anything, just put the handbrake on when you’re finished and it resets itself. You can do that with most epb's. You might need a M14 splined socket to remove the caliper carrier bolts if you’re changing the discs although some discs can be wiggled out if you’re lucky but I’ll warn you now, they are tight!

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Mottie said:
Yes. Remove the wiring plug and the two bolts that hold the electronic parking brake on from the rear of the calliper. You can then, with a socket or even your fingers, screw the handbrake spindle in clockwise, as far as it will go and then just push the piston back in the normal way. I have the tool to do it electronically but I just did it the way I described when I changed the pads and discs on our A3 because I’d lent the tool to a mate. You don’t need to reset anything, just put the handbrake on when you’re finished and it resets itself. You can do that with most epb's. You might need a M14 splined socket to remove the caliper carrier bolts if you’re changing the discs although some discs can be wiggled out if you’re lucky but I’ll warn you now, they are tight!

View attachment 230913
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Thank you, I just whipped the wheel off to have a gander, so the two bolts holding the epg on are Allen bolts, the caliper bolts appear to be 7mn Allen bolts, I have a 6 and an 8 so am already one tool missing, splined socket aside, sigh, I'll just get a garage to do it asap, street mechanics with no driveway or garage is far from perfect anyway.
 
freddiemercurystwin said:
Thank you, I just whipped the wheel off to have a gander, so the two bolts holding the epg on are Allen bolts, the caliper bolts appear to be 7mn Allen bolts, I have a 6 and an 8 so am already one tool missing, sigh, I'll just get a garage to do it asap, street mechanics with no driveway or garage is far from perfect anyway.
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Yeah, you'd struggle with an ordinary 7mm Allen key too. I had to use a 7mm bit in a 10mm ratchet spanner. All the bolts are buggers to get to on these!

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On older version the rear discs come out without removing the caliper bracket.
Maybe the same on yours.
Remove the caliper and try.
Also, some epb have an 8mm allen to rewind them.
After following mottie's procedure, before you do anything, pump the brakes with engine off, then start the car and then engage the parking brake.
I don't think it makes any difference but an Audi specialist did this when his vcds was playing up.
He said it resets it better, but again, I don't think it makes any difference.
 
How much are they stealing from you?
Ask if they have copper grease when you drop the car...
 
£157, never used them before, I've seen them crop up regularly social media as a recommended garage so will give them a go, £30 less than my usual garage (who normally do my annual MOT/oil change) but that garage is in the middle of a very expensive village (where I don't live btw).
 
freddiemercurystwin said:
£157, never used them before, I've seen them crop up regularly social media as a recommended garage so will give them a go, £30 less than my usual garage (who normally do my annual MOT/oil change) but that garage is in the middle of a very expensive village (where I don't live btw).
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£157 isn't bad. As a guide, I paid £75 for my discs and pads. Mintex. I’d imagine they are the same parts as on your car.
 
Well according to Companies House apparently this company was voluntarily liquidated (under its current trading name) in 2018 with debts of around £115K with HMRC as the biggest with £101K, a motor factor, accountant and his bank being the runners up, amongst others. Not sure that bodes well! :whistle: I wonder what his company name is now?
 
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Lidl had allen key bits in a couple of weeks ago. I bought a 7mm bit and brake adjusting tool (7mm) from halfrauds for about a tenner. You can also get an obd II reader from amazon for about £15 which together with a free app will let you wind back the epb and reset it on completion plus loads of other stuff reading and resetting fault codes etc.
 
If you intend to maintain your own car, why don't you invest in a socket set?
As someone mentioned Lidl, they occasionally do a very comprehensive set where you'll find even the spark plugs sockets with rubber inserts, screwdriver bits, torx and allan keys
If I didn't have my set I would've bought that one.
 
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