I need a new multimeter. Can anyone recommend a reasonably reliable meter suitable for light DIY use please. Nothing fancy/expensive - nothing Fluke!
Recommend DIY (Budget) Multimeter
- Thread starter ReganAndCarter
- Start date
I thought maybe the Sealey MM20 for around £23ish. Has audible continuity, stand and rubber housing.
Sealey Digital Multimeter 8-Function with Thermocouple mm20 5024209731713 | eBay
Features data-hold function, temperature probe and diode test facility. Housed in rugged rubber boot with integral stand. Supplied with full set of leads and probes. Top Service. We will do everything to solve any problem.
www.ebay.co.uk
Simple screwfix one does the job... but that does depend on the job ... a lot only display 1 in reading ohms if the value is below that.
Dirt cheap is https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-dc-digital-multimeter-600v/793rt but it does work and is accurate against an oscilloscope with defined load.
Dirt cheap is https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-dc-digital-multimeter-600v/793rt but it does work and is accurate against an oscilloscope with defined load.
Auto ranging multimeter makes life much easier.
I've had a fairly standard digital multimeter for years, more recently got an "Aneng" one off aliexpress, it was silly cheap, only a few quid at the time, with audible continuity and a backlight.
The cheap chineese ones on amazon seem to be be reliable and well made. Big Clive did a teardown of one of them compared to a professional brand, and found the size and capacity of the fuse was smaller in the cheap equivalent, so I bought a fluke
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I selected these
the upper one is new, the lower one bought many years ago when working in Hong Kong before the take over, and clearly from the reading, now past its best.
But I will say why I selected the UT210D as my replacement.
1) It can measure earth leakage. As shown in picture.
2) It can measure both AC and DC current.
3) There is no way that selecting wrong range can produce a short circuit.
4) The clamp means I can hang it on something to measure volts without holding in my hand.
5) It has a 4 stage non contact volts range.
6) Small enough to carry anywhere.
7) Cheap, it cost me £35.
The DC current needs zeroing, and although it can measure 1 mA DC, so easy to move meter so the reading is not accurate, to measure the 6 mA DC leakage current is a bit hit and miss, but once measuring over 10 mA no real problem, I used these
for years to measure DC amps, and the clamp-on is so much better, and cheaper.
Today I wonder how in the early years I got by without a clamp-on multi-meter, be it testing for a borrowed neutral before disconnecting, or tests which could be done wired.
The old yellow meter also measures frequency, handy to set speed on generator sets, I still have one of these
not used in years, not sure they comply with GS 38 no one considered that in the 80's when I got mine.
However the leads for the red clamp-on did comply, you need to consider when getting a really cheap meter, the cost of GS 38 leads, looking at an advert for leads, and they cost more than my meter.
But I will say why I selected the UT210D as my replacement.
1) It can measure earth leakage. As shown in picture.
2) It can measure both AC and DC current.
3) There is no way that selecting wrong range can produce a short circuit.
4) The clamp means I can hang it on something to measure volts without holding in my hand.
5) It has a 4 stage non contact volts range.
6) Small enough to carry anywhere.
7) Cheap, it cost me £35.
The DC current needs zeroing, and although it can measure 1 mA DC, so easy to move meter so the reading is not accurate, to measure the 6 mA DC leakage current is a bit hit and miss, but once measuring over 10 mA no real problem, I used these
Today I wonder how in the early years I got by without a clamp-on multi-meter, be it testing for a borrowed neutral before disconnecting, or tests which could be done wired.
The old yellow meter also measures frequency, handy to set speed on generator sets, I still have one of these
not used in years, not sure they comply with GS 38 no one considered that in the 80's when I got mine.However the leads for the red clamp-on did comply, you need to consider when getting a really cheap meter, the cost of GS 38 leads, looking at an advert for leads, and they cost more than my meter.
I still have one of thesenot used in years, not sure they comply with GS 38 no one considered that in the 80's when I got mine.
I have three of those, mostly for nostagic reasons. I have a few Fluke instruments, and around a dozen cheapies, which are scattered around the place - in the car, the caravan, the garage workshop and etc..
- Joined
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I looked at Screwfix, the cheapest AC/DC clamp on is nearly £100 and the 0.01A resolution means not much good. I started up the price range and at £200 gave up, either would not measure DC current, or the AC current not low enough to test earth leakage.
At 10 mA, 20 mA or tripped, working out what is causing the trips is near impossible, I had a 13 amp plug with three leads to 13 amp socket so I could put the cables through the jaws a few times, to try seeing what earth leakage was, and work out the problem items.
In real life it is often a build up, 2 mA here, and 1 mA there, I now know the main earth leakage was down to central heating, as the total dropped a lot when the central heating got its own supply.
But without the clamp one can't test before disconnection for current, so impossible to test for borrowed neutrals before disconnecting. So the clamp on meter is an essential part of an electricians safety kit.
At 10 mA, 20 mA or tripped, working out what is causing the trips is near impossible, I had a 13 amp plug with three leads to 13 amp socket so I could put the cables through the jaws a few times, to try seeing what earth leakage was, and work out the problem items.
In real life it is often a build up, 2 mA here, and 1 mA there, I now know the main earth leakage was down to central heating, as the total dropped a lot when the central heating got its own supply.
But without the clamp one can't test before disconnection for current, so impossible to test for borrowed neutrals before disconnecting. So the clamp on meter is an essential part of an electricians safety kit.