Remove shower frame to replace tile or attempt to seal up cracked tile?

[earljones]

Hi guys

I've recently noticed a hairline crack in the tile of my quadrant shower cubicle, which is unfortunately behind the cubicle frame which means that if I want to fix it properly, I'll need to dismantle the whole shower. I'm not sure if it is a recent crack caused by a little un (or even big un), or if it has been there unnoticed since we recently moved in, or if it is caused by something else (water ingress from elsewhere).

It looks fairly straight-forward to dismantle (remove the screw/bolt on top of the door hinge; remove the door; unscrew the arms supporting the glass pane; remove glass pane which should then provide access to the frame screws; unscrew frame), but I'm unable to identify the model/name of shower cubicle, so haven't been able to source the installation instructions on-line. There's no writing on any bits of the frame, and the only writing on the glass is to indcate that it's toughened glass. Google image search hasn't revealed anything. I may be overthinking it by trying to find the installation instructions, but I just want to make sure that I'm doing it properly and not missing any crucial steps out.

I think it's a fairly old model given that the previous owners (v elderley) don't recall when it was installed, and the electric shower unit appears to have been discontinued over 15 years ago.

Having read about this on this forum, I'm now aware of weep holes in showers - I noticed that it was all sealed up on the inside, which I understand can lead to water ingress so I started to remove some at the bottom (where you can see the gap in the closesup) to see if any water ran out after passing some where the glass pane meets the frame, however nothing ran out so I suspect it should be resealed. Incidentally, I did also remove some sealant running up the inside of the frame beside the crack to check if I could see any obvious gaps where water could seep through, but it seemed ok.

Does anyone recognise this model of shower by any chance? Alternatively, do you think I could get away with plugging the crack with sealant or waterproof epoxy and monitoring (as I've seen in a few posts here)? I already have a million and one jobs to do in the house, and I've been told in no uncertain terms that I don't have the time to be dismantling the shower in order to fix something that may not even be a problem, but I would also like to fix this properly...

Thanks for listening to my ramblings

Edited to add: for those concerned, electricity to the shower has been cut off at the consumer unit. The solenoid valve developed a leak, so it's looking as though it'll be cheaper to buy a new one (many Triton showers have similar footprints) as opposed to fixing it.

 

[conny]

First thing you need to do is get that shower cover back on and sealed. If you haven't got the cover then I would have the cables isolated at both end, (shower and consumer unit), the shower ends pulled back to a safe position out of the room, (back to the loft/under the floorboards or wherever). I wouldn't worry about repairing the carcks at the moment. You can smear a thin layer of clear sealant over the cracks to prevent water trying to get behind the back until you have time to do the job properly.
When you have time, you will figure out how the shower frame comes apart and won't, (hopefully), be under pressure to get it sorted.

 

[ktuludays]

From experience if that cubicle has been fitted correctly you may find that more tiles crack trying to get the wall mounted channel off. I've never removed one without tiles cracking. Personally unless you want a big job I'd be tempted to run clear silicone and smooth over the crack.

 

[earljones]

First thing you need to do is get that shower cover back on and sealed. If you haven't got the cover then I would have the cables isolated at both end, (shower and consumer unit), the shower ends pulled back to a safe position out of the room, (back to the loft/under the floorboards or wherever). I wouldn't worry about repairing the carcks at the moment. You can smear a thin layer of clear sealant over the cracks to prevent water trying to get behind the back until you have time to do the job properly.
When you have time, you will figure out how the shower frame comes apart and won't, (hopefully), be under pressure to get it sorted.

But I like my showers to give me a jolt in the morning.....In all seriousness I appreciate you flagging this immediately, but it is already switched off at both the isolator switch and the consumer unit, as it has developed a fault. Have edited the initial post to make it clear!

 

[earljones]

From experience if that cubicle has been fitted correctly you may find that more tiles crack trying to get the wall mounted channel off. I've never removed one without tiles cracking. Personally unless you want a big job I'd be tempted to run clear silicone and smooth over the crack.

Whilst I want to avoid cutting corners, I'm also trying to avoid adding big jobs to the list! Thanks

 

[tell80]

Depends on your skills (ie. have you ever installed a similar enclosure) but removing cleaning up, and replacing an enclosure jamb is pretty straightforward.
But only If you think it worthwhile.

Cracked tiles such as yours are often caused by a plug and screwing issue?

 

[earljones]

Never done it before, hence trying to identify the specific model of shower just in case there are any particular oddities about the installation/removal process. I think I'll apply some clear sealant as suggested and then reassess if any further problems materialise.

It could be caused by a plug and screwing issue as you suggest. It does also sound quite hollow around the tile, so it could have been cause by some other pressure (e.g. being knocked/hit).

Do you think the gap between the frame and the base (just above the word 'crack' in 2nd photo) should be sealed? I initially thought that it was a weep hole, but don't think so after the testing.