Removing and reinserting a kitchen cupboard

[lpljimbo]

Hi all,

We're considering having our water supply pipe replaced and the plumber (who is approved by the local water board and seems legit!) obviously needs to bring the supply into the house.

He has proposed removing the kitchen cabinet next to the sink in order to access the floor and bring the pipe in there.

It's a single cupboard so he said he'll remove the kickboard, detach the cupboard from the worktop and slide it out, and then simply slide it in again when he's done.

My missus is concerned the cupboard will never go back into place perfectly straight\level etc. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience?

As an alternative, I'm wondering whether to tell him to simply cut a large section out of the bottom of the cupboard so he can access the floor without moving it. Likewise, does anyone have any thoughts on whether that would drastically affect the core structure\strength of the cupboard?

Thanks in advance!

Jay

 

[foxhole]

If it was installed level then it would be difficult to re-install out of level using the same fixing points.

 

[JohnD]

Do your cabinets have screw-down adjustable legs, as is usual? If so, the easy way to remove one is to reduce the height of the cab so it no longer presses on the worktop, pull it out, do the work, slide it back, re-adjust the legs to the correct height.

There may be one or more screws holding the cab to the wall, often through the back top rail, to prevent it wobbling or tipping.

Easy.

BTW, and depending if the legs have big feet, and the floor covering, it is easier to slide things if you give the floor a spray of WD40 first.

 

[lpljimbo]

They do have adjustable legs, yes. Sounds like a plan!

Thanks both, appreciate the response

 

[Deleted member 174758]

There may be one or more screws holding the cab to the wall, often through the back top rail, to prevent it wobbling or tipping.

Properly installed cabinets should be screwed/joined to the adjacent cabinets - the screws are often hidden down shelf peg holes, underneath hinge mounting plates, underneath drawer runners, hidden by shelves or near the tops of the cabinet sides (all places that can't easily be seen). They might also be connected from the adjacent unit, too, and I have once come across units screwed together behind the cabinet backs, inside the service void where you couldn't get at them (presumably by a sad, sadistic barsteward). There could also be a screw or two through the nailer (splat) at the top front of the cabinet into the underside of the worktop. Just pointing this out in case the "wind the legs up" advice doesn't work (and why a multitool can be faster/easier)

 

[JohnD]

I think he's finished by now.