Repair aluminium recoil pull start without welding - Help

J

Jonny Vee

Joined
22 Nov 2019
Messages
623
Reaction score
12
Country
United Kingdom
Apologize if this is not related to car repair but still about mechanical equipment and maybe someone could help me.

I have picked up from a friend an old Sthil petrol cutter which had all the nuts holding the recoil pull start completely locked. Look like they attempted to unscrew and with some brutal force they snapped the aluminium case. See attached photos

I know it may sound silly and someone just say get replacement parts but as these are more expensive than a brand new machine, I would like to try and put back togheter. I do not have access to tig or mig welding. Is there any epoxy or other product the could be used to stick these together again?

Thanks
 
See photos
 

Attachments

  • 20220205_123617.jpg
    20220205_123617.jpg
    405.1 KB · Views: 101
  • 20220205_123621.jpg
    20220205_123621.jpg
    274.7 KB · Views: 115
  • 20220205_123626.jpg
    20220205_123626.jpg
    398.1 KB · Views: 101
  • 20220205_123633.jpg
    20220205_123633.jpg
    300.7 KB · Views: 111
  • 20220205_123639.jpg
    20220205_123639.jpg
    271.3 KB · Views: 114
Jonny Vee said:
Is there any epoxy or other product the could be used to stick these together again?
Click to expand...

Nothing would glue that, your choices are find someone who can alloy weld back in place, or......

Shape a piece of steel to fit snugly inside the casing, so it can be bolted the remaining solid bits of the case. That could either poke out of the case to form the lug, drilled and tapped - or the existing broken bit of lug bolted to it, then the lug re-drilled and tapped.
 
If that is only to clamp, either epoxy might glue it, with plenty excess so long as it doesn’t foul, or use expoxy putty shaped to fit. Leave it a week before trying.

another option is stuff like lumiweld. Use with a hot blowtorch/ MAP gas. Build it up and shape
Must be cleaned surgically
 
Is that a TS 350? Oldie but goodie!
Believe it or not, there are a lot of these machines lying dumped in the stores of horticulural dealers or hire shops and you may get the outer housing there.
Failing that, try L&S Engineers or GHS Ltd - you may get lucky with a pattern part.
Ebay could also come up with something.....ignore the internal casting for now, get the recoil spinning the thing over first.
John :)
 
I've tried it, no problem. Not the same brand, but it still worked. Try on some scrap first. The melting point of the ali* isn't much higher than that of the rods so you have to be careful to put in enough heat to melt the rod, but not so much to melt the base material. Like all these jobs, make sure it's clean and grease free. I can't remember if flux is required... but the instructions will tell you :)

I had the parts I was 'brazing' together enclosed in a corner of house bricks, just to keep the heat in. As you might know, aluminium is a good conductor so the heat you're putting in on one spot will be conducted away.

Nozzle

(*yes, I know the ali oxide skin has a significantly higher melting point)
 
Nozzle said:
I've tried it, no problem. Not the same brand, but it still worked. Try on some scrap first. The melting point of the ali* isn't much higher than that of the rods so you have to be careful to put in enough heat to melt the rod, but not so much to melt the base material. Like all these jobs, make sure it's clean and grease free. I can't remember if flux is required... but the instructions will tell you :)
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll get some - it just sounded to good to be true..
 
Burnerman said:
Is that a TS 350? Oldie but goodie!
Believe it or not, there are a lot of these machines lying dumped in the stores of horticulural dealers or hire shops and you may get the outer housing there.
Failing that, try L&S Engineers or GHS Ltd - you may get lucky with a pattern part.
Ebay could also come up with something.....ignore the internal casting for now, get the recoil spinning the thing over first.
John :)
Click to expand...

It is t's 350 also got 360 both with load of damaged components. I know motor is better than new ones and wanted to make her work myself. Please keep me posted if you came across any dumped one. I could strip out for parts.
 
Last edited:
Before getting stuck in....does the engine have good compression? There could be big costs looming if it hasn't - and the air filtering on these was just ok, but nowhere near as good as the more recent machines so cylinder and piston wear was an issue..
John :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top