Replace Garage Door Frame (closed)

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yartin

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Hi
I need to change garage door frame, pls see pic.
The 2 x side jambs dimensions: L=2280mm , W=70mm, D=100mm

I want to only replace the side jambs, guess it's possible.
I think there is no head jamb anyway, only wood lentil as in pic.

What timber shall I look for? Assuming what I am trying is feasible.

Thanks

IMG_5965 (2).jpg
 
Assuming the section has no rebate machined into it, look for a joinery grade redwood. In other words use a timber merchant, and NOT a DIY centre of any description, because they generally sell overpriced, second rate, bent, knotty whitewood.

Hardwood might be a better choice, depending on species, but will.cost considerably more.

After cutting to size, but before installation, stand the bottoms of the pieces in a bucket containing Cuprinol wood preservative, as well as dosing the tops well and painting all rhe outside surfaces. This will help fend off rot in the future
 
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JobAndKnock said:
Assuming the section has no rebate machined into it, look for a joinery grade redwood. In other words use a timber merchant, and NOT a DIY centre of any description, because they generally sell overpriced, second rate, bent, knotty whitewood.

Hardwood might be a better choice, depending on species, but will.cost considerably more.

After cutting to size, but before installation, stand the bottoms of the pieces in a bucket containing Cuprinol wood preservative, as well as dosing the tops well and painting all rhe outside surfaces. This will help fend off rot in the future
Click to expand...
The 2 side jabs have cuts/groves to accommodate the wooden lentil as in my simple drawing, I guess I can cut this myself?

I won't use white wood but came across redwood which should be fine, isn't it? The only issue it comes 75mm standard wide, can I trim it to 70mm or best to find a ready one?

I think I will prime and paint final coat before fitting.

Which fixings shall I use?

Cheers

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post.png
 
The "rebate" at the top is fairly straight forward to cut using a (circular) saw (and a square) to make a cross cut, then a sW tomake the rip cut along the grain. Clean up with a wide, sharp chisel

I'd be surprised if your redwood is 75mm finished size. Is the timber described as PSE (planed, square edged) or PAR (pla ed all round)? I'd normally expect a finishd size, "ex-4 x 3in", to be around 90 to 95 x 70mm

Whatt size fixings are already used? What do the jambs fix to? Brick? Or is there metalin there? For brick I'd expect to use something like 6 x 100 or 6 x 120mm countersunk head screws, into 7mm holes with brown plugs. You will need to pilot drill and countersink the timber
 
JobAndKnock said:
The "rebate" at the top is fairly straight forward to cut using a (circular) saw (and a square) to make a cross cut, then a sW tomake the rip cut along the grain. Clean up with a wide, sharp chisel

I'd be surprised if your redwood is 75mm finished size. Is the timber described as PSE (planed, square edged) or PAR (pla ed all round)? I'd normally expect a finishd size, "ex-4 x 3in", to be around 90 to 95 x 70mm

Whatt size fixings are already used? What do the jambs fix to? Brick? Or is there metalin there? For brick I'd expect to use something like 6 x 100 or 6 x 120mm countersunk head screws, into 7mm holes with brown plugs. You will need to pilot drill and countersink the timber
Click to expand...
What is "sW to make the rip"?

Sorry it's my fault, it's 70x95 finish. Can I use something like this?
www.harlowbros.co.uk

75 x 100 mm (70x95 Finish) PAR Planed All Round Redwood Timber

75 x 100 mm Nominal Size Planed All Round Smooth Finish Redwood Joiney Timber (PAR). We can cut this product for you for a charge. If you require cutting of your item(s) your ordering branch or eCommerce team are happy to discuss this with you in more detail and organise payment for you cut...
www.harlowbros.co.uk www.harlowbros.co.uk

It's fixed to brick wall. Can I use EASYFIX NYLON HAMMER FIXINGS 8 X 120MM/hammer fixings? Or screws plus plugs are better?

Thanks
 
yartin said:
What is "sW to make the rip"?
Click to expand...
As stated, "saw". As in hand saw or tenon saw. Small screen - large tradesman's fingers I'm afraid

yartin said:
...it's 70x95 finish. Can I use something like this?
Click to expand...
Yes. Should be OK

yartin said:
It's fixed to brick wall. Can I use EASYFIX NYLON HAMMER FIXINGS 8 X 120MM/hammer fixings? Or screws plus plugs are better?
Click to expand...
Hammer fixings will do the job, but TBH for this application they seem ridiculously over priced and completely unnecessary. It's your choice.
 
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One more question:
The top hinge is fixed on the frame and the wooden lentil, pls see pic on first post. The frame will be new but am keeping same lentil but has rot in the part where the hinged is screwed to, is 2 part wood filler strong enough? The hinge is fixed by 4 screws, 2 on the frame and 2 on the lentil.

Thanks
 
Filler, 2k or otherwise, has absolutely no strength to it. Better to cut any rot out, treat the exposed edges with wood hardener and then splice in a fresh piece of timber (glued and cramped in place, not just screwed)
 
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JobAndKnock said:
Filler, 2k or otherwise, has absolutely no strength to it. Better to cut any rot out, treat the adges with wood hardener and splice in a fresh piece of timber (glued and cramped in place, not just screwed)
Click to expand...
Pic of the rotten part below, I cleaned loose timber and applied wood hardener to kill the rot. The red area is where the top part of hinge bracket will be fixed to, depth of rot is about 15mm max at the deepest, I will pack the holes with wood and glue, I can't see much space to put fresh timber, do you think filling with 2 part wood filler should be enough? The top bracket has 4 screws from which 2 screws are fixed to this part of timber and the other 2 will be fixed to the new timber frame.
 
Any chance you could post a photo from a bit further back? It's difficult from such a tightly cropped photo to say anything other than, "Yes, that's rot". From your earlier post I'm not sure you understand what I have proposed, and I would like to clarify what I meant
 
JobAndKnock said:
Any chance you could post a photo from a bit further back? It's difficult from such a tightly cropped photo to say anything other than, "Yes, that's rot". From your earlier post I'm not sure you understand what I have proposed, and I would like to clarify what I meant
Click to expand...

IMG_6026.jpg
 
Please do not duplicate your posts
I have shaped piece of timber to fit in the rotted area as in pic attached, if I fix this with filler and one screw and fill all around should be good enough?

IMG_6028.jpg
 
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