Replacing floorboards

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I need to replace the odd floorboard of the base timber flooring in my Victorian house. What specs should I look for in the board? I will measure the width and thickness. It's not tongue and groove.

Thanks
 
timber yard builders merchant 6x1" par[20-20'5mmx 143mm] or 5x1" planed [119mm]
 
Problem is that 5 x 1 or 6 x 1 won't be anywhere near wide enough - the ones in our upstairs rooms (1881 house) are 8in and 10in wide respectively and I can still buy 8 and 9in boards locally (10in is a bit of a stretch). OP, have you actually lifted a board yet? A lot of Victorian floorboards were finished at 1in (25mm) or even 1-1/8in (28mm) whereas a new "1in" board will be finished at 20 to 22mm. It may be worth measuring the boards and seeing if you can source exact size replacements from a local salvage yard. Either way, if you don't have one already, now might be the time to consider investing in a circular saw
 
Thanks both. I have lifted and odd say they're around 22mm. They also appear rather narrow, but I will measure them today to be sure. I was looking online for reclaimed boards but they seem pricey. I think I'm looking in the wrong place.

In buying the new timber, does the would need to be a particular type? I redwood is common, or would is any softwood fine as long as it gets acclimatised before installing?
 
If you just want to replace the boards then ask for square edge planking - you'll probably get whitewood which isn't as good as joinery grade redwood, but costs less, and it will do the job. If buying from a timber merchant the timber has been kiln dried and should have been stored either under cover or at least in polythene-wrapped packs (normally a couple of tons per pack), so there should be no need to acclimatise it.

Some stuff, like recycled, seems more expensive when bought on line. I used to buy recycled pitch pine from a local demolition company - no on line presence, just walk into the yard and ask, but about half the price of the other relatively local but snotty outfit I found on-line. I think some on-line shops trade on snob value and charge accordingly
 
Thanks.

I found a builders merchant online selling Redwood that seams pretty reasonable.

I measured this morning and found 2 different sizes, I think an area was more recently replaced. They are 6 x 3/4 (so 6x1 i think), and 5 1/2 x 20. I assume that slight difference in thickness would be okay under a 6mm board and underlay.
 
the worked size is always smaller as in 6x1 is sawn size then planing /working removes material
 
I found a builders merchant online selling Redwood that seams pretty reasonable
Redwood is more durable and wera-resistant than white, so a better choice

I measured this morning and found 2 different sizes, I think an area was more recently replaced. They are 6 x 3/4 (so 6x1 i think), and 5 1/2 x 20. I assume that slight difference in thickness would be okay under a 6mm board and underlay.
When dealing with merchants what you need to as for is the "finished size". Redwood ex-6 x 1in will generally finish around 144 x 22mm, white wood would be a millimetre or two smaller - be very aware that there is no absolute fixed standard in terms of the finished sizes, so one yard's 6 x 1 could finish at 144 x 22mm and another might be 140 x 21mm, hence the need to ask for the finished size. Being slightly undersize in thickness isn't too much of a problem as you can always add packers (plastic horseshoe packers come in 1, 2, 4, 5mm etc - hardboard is about 3.2mm) to the tops of the joists to bring a 20mm thick board level with existing 22mm or even 25mm boards (this makes for a flatter floor and you also avoid any dip telegraphing through your carpets, as it invariably does) - being undersize in terms of width is more of an issue, hence my earlier comments about the usefulness of having a portable circular saw to resize boards to the required width
 
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Thanks for the very clear answers, definitely need to trip to the local timber yard. Seems I should buy thinner and pack to the required level.

A friend has a circular saw that I will borrow.
 
Make sure you get the rip fence with it - kind of difficult to saw a straight line without a rip fence!

Yep, I recently trimmed a door down which took a lot of planing afterwards.


Timber planks and 6mm boards bought, much cheaper than online in the end. Fingers crossed now
 
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