Replacing underfloor heating thermostat

J

Jamiedee90

Joined
13 May 2021
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,

Trying to replace my dead under floor heating thermostat and I'm struggling as the letters on the back differ. I understand where the live, neutral and two sensor wires go (assuming it doesn't matter which way around the sensor wires go in?) but I have no idea where I put the wire that previously was in L1, can anybody help. Do I need a different thermostat? Thanks I'm advanced

Best
Jamie
 

Attachments

  • IMG20240504084349.jpg
    IMG20240504084349.jpg
    180.5 KB · Views: 59
  • IMG20240504084141.jpg
    IMG20240504084141.jpg
    160 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG20240504145709.jpg
    IMG20240504145709.jpg
    195.1 KB · Views: 58
As above, was there a wire that went from L to N1?
 
No wire from L to N. I've attached the connection to the control panel below
 

Attachments

  • IMG20240504145738.jpg
    IMG20240504145738.jpg
    324.3 KB · Views: 34
It's a switched live output on L1 on the existing stat - no need for any other wires; the neutral (to the load) could be connected anywhere (hopefully from the same circuit).

The new stat would simply require a short link wire between L (2) and COM (5).
The black wire would then connect to NO (3).

However, the bigger concern is the maximum output current; the existing stat is rated at 16A, when the new stat is 3A.
Does this stat directly power an underfloor heating mat, or an actuator?
 
It powers the control panel not the actuator. I bought the new one before I even realised they were different
 
Jamiedee90 said:
It powers the control panel not the actuator. I bought the new one before I even realised they were different
Click to expand...
Sorry, I didn't see post #4, as I was writing at the same time.
Looking at your photo, the thermostat is controlling the actuator of a wet UFH system, rather than powering an electric heating mat.
A thermostat with a 3A switching rating *should* be sufficient (depending on your actual system specs).

In which case, in addition to the L, N and NTC connections...
RandomGrinch said:
The new stat would simply require a short link wire between L (2) and COM (5).
The black wire would then connect to NO (3).
Click to expand...

...the wiring in the Wago (type) connector looks interesting though - there shouldn't be two wires in the same port, and where does the extra black wire go to?
Also, is the stat mounted into a metal back box?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top