Replacing UPVC window with nothing above

TedTrippin

TedTrippin

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I have a 1930's build. When I moved in it already had old PVC windows.

In one upstairs room, I noticed a gap emerging between the top of the window and the ceiling. I figured I would replace since I'm getting condensation on the inside (not between the panes ,just on the inside of the window).

I'm currently having a new roof and I can see there is literally nothing above the window. No bricks, no lintel, no anything... just air! There's no wall plate on the external wall, only the internal.

I'm assuming originally there would have been a wooden framed window with bricks on top?

My question is, should I just replace the window and use trim to seal any gaps? Or should I really fit something above the window to screw into?
 
On the face of it what you describe is a potentially dangerous situation. as above post some pics of the inside and the outside of the room and eaves.
 
Our estate of 1000 plus houses are all the same. Nothing above windows.
It causes the windows to sag on some properties including mine. Most are fine though if uPVC is fitted correctly.
What they do is pack the glass at the top to keep the frame level. On houses where this has not been done the frame sags.
Also the soffit board sits on the frame and as you mentioned when the frame was wooden it was never a problem.

I've never got an answer. Often fitters put the thunder bolts though the top of new window frame for show even though they are going in fresh air.
 
TedTrippin said:
I have a 1930's build. When I moved in it already had old PVC windows.

In one upstairs room, I noticed a gap emerging between the top of the window and the ceiling. I figured I would replace since I'm getting condensation on the inside (not between the panes ,just on the inside of the window).

I'm currently having a new roof and I can see there is literally nothing above the window. No bricks, no lintel, no anything... just air! There's no wall plate on the external wall, only the internal.

I'm assuming originally there would have been a wooden framed window with bricks on top?

My question is, should I just replace the window and use trim to seal any gaps? Or should I really fit something above the window to screw into?
Click to expand...
It doesn’t sound like a big deal

Usually the roof rafters birdsmouth over the wall plate and thus the soffit line ends up lower than the wall plate - so I would’ve expected there to be something between the wall plate and window on the inside so the window re RAL is below the ceiling.

Anyway in regards to your query, you can put in a length of studwork like say 4 x 2 to fill the gap- if there are rafter above you could screw it them to fix it in place.


Just one thing to note: if you are going to have side hung windows, be careful the top of the sash doesn’t hit the gutter…..I use to survey windows and it’s an easy thing to forget to check. If it’s a problem, choose top hung instead….although then there’s a problem screwing the sashes in.

Also I prefer to make the window a bit shorter as it looks better if the window head finishes below the soffit level…and trim the gap. (Be careful on egress compliance)
 
Hopefully this is clear enough. On the left you can see the interior wall and wall plate. In the middle is the top of the window and right next to it is the newly fitted soffit.
 

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"They don't build houses like they used to".
Just as well, eh?
I had similar in a renter I had. I succumbed to an itchy expanding foam gun trigger finger.
 
indeed, there ain't much point installing a thermally broken, triple glazed, low e, soft coat heat retaining window if the only thing between your room air and the world air is a bit of lath and plaster. Massive mould infestation, meet massive energy bill :/
 
What i think i might, at this point, is take the window out. Remove the lathe and plaster. Add a bit of4x2, if I'm able to screw it in. Add new window. Foam up the void. Add some plasterboard.
 
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