hi, new to this so appreciate any help.have a warmflow boiler approx 6 years old fitted on my houseboat. burner is an rdb2.2 21-26. has been good and runs on kerosene or red diesel quite happily. developed a fault recently when recommisioning for the winter. having primed up new fuel, the burner will ignite then immediately go out, re ignite then go out, sometimes burns for a couple of seconds, sometimes slightly more. if left it will cycle like this until the burn becomes longer and eventually will function normally.once lit it will cut in and out on the thermostat normally.this seems to be heat related as though it needs to warm up before it will hold in, like an old car with a choke.fuel is good, pump appears to function ok, although has had some crap through it in its life,solenoid and ignition appear to be ok,any ideas as i don,t want to leave it on till march just to keep it warm!thanks for help.
Oil burners are generally set up to use either kero or gas oil - often there are differences in jetting sizes and pump pressure so you use one or the other.
I'd clean out the internal flue ways to start with and ensure the photocell inside the burner is clean......has the appliance had a service recently?
John
I'd clean out the internal flue ways to start with and ensure the photocell inside the burner is clean......has the appliance had a service recently?
John
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What CO2, O2 and CO readings are you getting.??
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If it wasn't.... How would it work ??
Think he probably means over aired.
+1
If it has been set up on 35 sec and you are using 28 sec, or vice versa the air setting will be amiss. Also the oil pressure will be totally out, difference can be 25% -30% different.
Re-ignition until warm suggests over aired. Try obscuring the air intake with your hand and see if it remains lit. This would confirm overairing. It will really need commissioning correctly, but running on red diesel if the flue is short or horizontal could be dangerous because of the heat, and is against regs.
If it runs once warm, then the oil feed is probably sound. Think back to when cars had manual chokes. They would not start without the air being restricted but ran ok once warm.
What size nozzle you got in with what fuel if kero or diesel need different nozzles IMHO
if kero use .65x60degree s and115 psi if diesel then .6 x60s with 9.5 bar pressure and then check co2and 02 I'd set 02 at 5.2% and keep c02 at around 10.75% if poss.Bob
if kero use .65x60degree s and115 psi if diesel then .6 x60s with 9.5 bar pressure and then check co2and 02 I'd set 02 at 5.2% and keep c02 at around 10.75% if poss.Bob
thanks for the help, i don,t have the facilities to analyze gas, flue is vertical approx 9 ft, bleeding off fuel at the pump does not reveal any bubbles.do i need to adjust the pump pressure? if so how?.perhaps i will try running on a can of kerosene for elimination purposes. or should i just pay an engineer to set it up for me, thoughts?.i am obviously not a heating engineer, but a marine one and not daft
Don't touch the pump if you don't have a gauge the damage you can do is serious look in the yellow pages for an OFTEC reg tech also don't mix your fuels it can be dangerous,and I'm not kidding.Bob
Pay for a combustion engineer. Without equipment, you need to be experienced to achieve combustion, and even then, you need a pressure gauge to set oil pressure. With one constant, a good eye and ear stand a chance.