Rising damp and Wood borer infestation qoute Fife, Scotland.

[Andrew Inch]

Looking for some advice.

I have recently received a quote as described below -

1 Carrying out woodborer eradication treatments to all accessible roofing timbers and
flooring timbers throughout the property dry lining the front walls of both bedrooms
including fitting a waterproof membrane into the dividing wall between the bathroom
and bedroom on ground floor level all as indicated on our attached sketch plan.

£3,644.00 + VAT
Three Thousand Six Hundred and Forty-Four Pounds + VAT

Now, I understand that spraying timbers etc will need to be left to professionals. What I want to know is if doing the dry lining and fitting waterproof membrane myself is a DIY task or has to be left to professionals. I have already removed all plaster back to the brickwork on the walls that are needing attention.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

You can spray your own timbers if you want to (and have the right protective kit)- what you should get from a professional job is an insurance-backed warranty (so if any treated timber becomes infested again within 25 years the warranty will pay for necessary works). Also what is their definition of 'accessible'?

Dry lining is also DIYable as is fixing membranes etc. Does that quote include installing insulation (as it maybe ought to depending on how much plaster you've hacked off and whether they're outside walls) and plasterboard and skimming and fixing/refixing any electrical sockets, radiators etc on those walls?

And what problem is the membrane addressing?- if you've got a leaky bath or shower you should be fixing it, not just diverting the water away from the bedroom

 

[Andrew Inch]

Yes quote includes membrane, insulation and plasterboard as it is an outside wall. Currently no electrics or anything obstructing the walls to be fixed back on and the plasterboard is being left for us to skim. We addressed the damp coming from a slipped tile that has let water run down the inside wall of the house over the years causing the damp (At least this is what I have been told) They have said the membrane will help protect from the 'Rising Damp'

They have also told me that membrane needs to be put under the floorboards of the house as there is nothing between the house and the earth. This is not included in the quote.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Hmmm. And are they including 25 year insurance backed warranty for the timber treatment? Not sure about the membrane vs rising damp- there's a load of discussion about whether the phenomenon actually exists and you probably don't want to hear about it.

Membrane under the floorboards- are you saying the floorboards are sitting directly on earth? (Unusual but possible) or are we talking a suspended timber floor with joists and an air gap between joists and earth? (very common feature, I'm sitting in such a house right now)

The membrane under the floorboards (if floorboards are on the earth) will just turn the earth into mud. If it is a suspended floor then the membrane will reduce draughts and keep your floorboards dry but (if there are no airbricks or other underfloor ventilation) condemn your joists to a very early demise due to wet rot. If the floor is up then consider insulating while you have the chance. If the floor isn't up then be prepared to lose at least 30% of your boards when you lift them. Also if the floor is up and there's enough of an air gap, consider putting a proper subfloor in (DPM, concrete or gravel).

 

[Andrew Inch]

Yeah the warranty has been mentioned which is selling it to me the most. In regards to the argument of whether rising damp is even I thing, this is why I've posted on here as there is so many conflicting ideas.

Between the floor and the earth there is a gap of about a foot. The floor isn't currently up and I wouldn't want to lift it if I didn't need to.

To put you a bit more in the picture, the property we have bought is older 'c' listed building. It requires a complete rewire, new kitchen, new bathroom as well as decorating and flooring from top to bottom. So trying to do as much of it as possible ourselves.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Make sure the warranty is insurance backed- warranty from the company is only as solid as the company, loads of rising damp, woodworm, roofing etc. specialists go round flogging their wares with 25 year warranty- then fold the company and emerge 24 hours later under a different name, the warranties all die with the old company. Legal- yes. Moral- no.

If you've got a foot clear under the joists and you've got airbricks ventilating the space then you're fine. 6" is adequate between joists and subfloor. If you're not planning to lift the floor then don't. If you're planning the bare boards look then be aware it'll be a bit draughty.

 

[JohnD]

Read what the warranty says.

If it says "if worm or damp recurs in the area we have treated, we will come back and treat it again" it is useless.

I could say that if my treatment consisted of throwing cold tea at the wall.

 

[Doggit]

But you still haven't mentioned what problem they are trying to cure. Woodworm treatment is dead simple to do. You need a the sort of suit you see the cops wearing at a crime scene, and a face mask to protect against any fumes, and a pestecide spray container, and woodworm treatment. You lift about every 6th floorboard, and spray underneath the floorboards, the joists, and pretty much everything that's wood.

Most insurance guarantees will be worthless in years to come, and the amount you save on the "professionals" doing the work, is well worth doing it yourself, and redoing it later if necessary. Why are they suggesting drylining the front walls, and even more perplexing why are they suggesting a waterproof membrane in the dividing wall; is there a swimming pool on the other side of it.

I think you're being taken for a ride.