Roof abutment soakers and flashing

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Hi

I am using Marley modern concrete tiles and my extension roof abuts the existing house wall so i'll need to install a flashing.

Can a hidden soaker be used with a stepped flashing or does the flashing need to go on top of the tiles? I would prefer to use a hidden soaker although if that's not the proper method for these tiles then, over it is.

With a hidden soaker under the tiles, how does the water not just run onto the felt.... can't get my head around that!
 
I think i've figured it out. The hidden soakers are really for plain tiles/slates with plenty of overlap from what i can gather.

The Marley Moderns need the flashing over. I think i'll use these, just hope they don't look rubbish! I'm using smooth grey Marley Moderns not the red pictured.

Danelaw Modern Right Hand Dry Soaker

dry_soakers_in_situ_image.jpg
 
As above soakers can be used with Moderns

turn the edges of the lead up

Correct, Just add some timber underneath between battens to stop any slump in the future

Not that it makes much difference but I believe the picture shows Mini Stonewold and uni angle ridge by Redland.. Very poorly executed
 
first time i've seen these soakers but a couple of things:
the soakers are individual plastic soakers but the stepped flashing looks like rippings of lead.

maybe i'm wrong but to me they should be under the tile not exposed?
the soakers in the photo seem to me to be left hand soakers not right hand soakers - although they've been used as RH soakers.
shouldn't the lip be at the top going over the batten as in traditional lead soakers - otherwise how are the exposed soakers in the pic fixed - whats to stop them sliding down?

datarebal, i agree that the hip tiles look sketchy - fwiw, where is the "timber between the battens" supposed to go?
in fact the photo seems odd - OP is this your house?
 
That flashing will not last.
these soakers have been fitted correctly, it is not a new idea,
Redland supplied the same idea for stonewolds 30 years ago.
Not plastic but nuralte in those days

The timber i mentioned fits between the top of the tile and the bottom of the batten above. just to keep the home made soaker with turned up edge from slumping
 
I also make my own hidden lead soakers.....

What width would you make them?

maybe i'm wrong but to me they should be under the tile not exposed?

It does seem odd to have them above although if they were under, I can't see how they'd work.

OP is this your house?

No, the picture was just to show the type of soaker I was looking to use.

That flashing will not last.

Do you mean the flashing in the picture or do you mean the plastic soakers generally?
 
I don’t usually comment on posts on this.... trying to soaker a single lap tile is ridiculous and damn near impossible unless constructed in a way that is well over engineered! They invented secret gutters for flat single lap tiles.
 
trying (nothing to try it works )to soaker a single lap tile is ridiculous and damn near impossible unless constructed in a way that is well over engineered!

Its a long standing method for flat single lap tiles. it gives more control over the detailing than pre formed Secret gutters.

Personally we use 240 mm gives more under the tile
 
without a lip how do these soakers stay put when there's a strong wind or excessive water - or, as in the above pic, when the cover flashing is inadequate?
of course, nuralite like lead can simply be shaped to fit but hard plastic cant be manipulated.

fwiw: in my inexperience, loose setting an off-cut of batten as a noggin to prevent upstand sagging is something i've never come across eg valley battens are continuous.
any doubts then why not up the code to code 4. as noseall seems to suggest.

i'm dead against secret gutters at abutments - too much scope for hidden damage. although i've seen them working well, and some of our subby roofers have used them - and taken the weight of the guarantee. but outside of roof joins they are not for me.
 
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