Router set up for joints

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4 Jan 2004
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Devon
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I've bought a new router. It's a superb piece of kit. But I have a query regarding depth set up. If I want to create a cross-halved joint in, say, 3"x2", is there an easy way of setting the depth to exactly half way so you get a perfect flat face to the finished joint? I spent ages fiddling around until I got it just right. Even though I marked half the depth with a gauge, when I cut both pieces to this line, they weren't quite deep enough, and I had to make 3 or 4 test runs to get it right. It seemed to add a lot of hassle to doing the job which, in theory, the router should make a lot easier. In fairness, once the depth was set, cutting 30 or so joints was a piece of cake.

Is there a knack to this which I'm missing, or is it always a case of fiddling about until it's right?
 
personaly i would take a scrap of the material measure to the centre mark the wood turn the router up side down place the wood on the base plate compress the base plate till the cutter lines up with the centre of the line lock and ajust depth stop secure wood router to full half depth but only cutting 3 or 4 mm width turn over repeat but cut 2mm more
if the cuts overlap you reduce the depth by half the difference
if theres a bit left increase the depth by halve the difference

clear as mud eeehhh :lol:
 
That sounds OK, big-all. That would work with minimal test runs. (My router is a Bosch and has micro adjustment on the depth, to 0.2mm, so increasing/decreasing depth is easy)
But is that how "The Professionals" do it, I wonder?
 
Most pros will have to make a few test pieces to get what they want.

The more you do, the faster you will get at setting up.

There is always a lot of fiddling & fine tuning with routers.
 
One thing I have considered when making half housings accross the middle of a piece is to get a couple of extra fence bars and crank them so the fence is above the workpiece.
This would allow you to use a straight edge to follow then use the micrometer fence screw to open up the slot until it cuts the width of the workpiece.
 
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