Samsung Fridge Freezer

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Hi,

I have a Samsung American Fridge Freezer, it is frost free and the model number is RS21 WCNS.

Two months ago, the freezer stopped cooling and it showed an error code of ‘f-defrost error’. I sought advice and was told the fan would be blocked by ice and that i should frost try defrosting the entire unit. I did this and it fixed the problem.

The freezer is now no longer cooling again and I believe this could be something to do with the defrost heater/sensor as it has the same error code.

What part do I need to replace? I can only seem to find fridge defrost heaters rather than the relevant freezer part.

Is this the right part or do the fridge and freezer sections each have their own defrost heaters and sensors?
 
I had this problem with a hoover fridge/freezer, always first thing was a defrost and if this did not work, I had a service plan so repair guy called, this went on for years, around once every 9 months it would fail, then one time I was busy so did not defrost first, the guy opened fridge door and straight away he condemned unit as uneconomic to repair.

It seems the insulation had gone, and over time ice formed inside the insulation making it slowly worse and worse, but when I defrosted all these tell tail signs were lost, so for years I had been using a fridge/freezer which was likely using twice the amount of electric that it should have done, it was used to brew beer in after, but never got cold enough in that job for ice to form.

So the plug in energy meter is first tool, simple maths, if the unit is rated 240 kWh/year then should use around 660 Wh/day in this heat likely up a bit, so 700 Wh/day likely not fault with insulation, however at 1000 Wh/day it would point to an insulation problem. If insulation has gone, then it's a new unit.
 
So the plug in energy meter is first tool, simple maths, if the unit is rated 240 kWh/year then should use around 660 Wh/day in this heat likely up a bit, so 700 Wh/day likely not fault with insulation, however at 1000 Wh/day it would point to an insulation problem. If insulation has gone, then it's a new unit.
Although what you say is qualitatively correct, I suspect that you have rather an optimistic degree of faith in the 'energy usage rating', and also are probably assuming a degree of predictability of actual energy usage which does not exist. How much energy a refrigeration appliance will actually use will vary appreciably by virtue of a whole host of factors - such as ambient temperature, how full it is, how often the door is opened (and for how long) etc.etc.

Kind Regards, John
 
Although what you say is qualitatively correct, I suspect that you have rather an optimistic degree of faith in the 'energy usage rating', and also are probably assuming a degree of predictability of actual energy usage which does not exist. How much energy a refrigeration appliance will actually use will vary appreciably by virtue of a whole host of factors - such as ambient temperature, how full it is, how often the door is opened (and for how long) etc.etc.

Kind Regards, John
After having the problem I have tested my units on a regular basis, well around once a year, they are over the rated figures, but not by that much, did have a little 32 litre freezer using well over the rating, the motor running used something like 60 watt and average usage was 60 watt, i.e. motor never switched off, there is two likely causes for this, one is insulation failure, the other is thermostat failure, so wanted to measure the temperature inside the freezer, I tried all local shops, nothing, I had sent for a stand alone thermostat to control a fridge for beer making and once that arrived I could use it to both measure and control if required, but wanted some thing in the mean time to test temperature.

Then read freezing point of brine is -18°C so dissolved some salt in water to saturation point, put it on shallow dish and in freezer, it froze solid, so clear thermostat not insulation and ordered a new one, when the unit for brewing arrived use that temporary to control freezer, when proper unit arrive fitted it and tested with the brewing unit, the thermostat had to be set to coldest point to get -18°C in freezer, not sure if due to sensor position or what. So tested all other freezers in the family they were all OK.

Today the fridge and freezer reports temperature when door is opened and is set in degrees C, however all the older units had simple high, med, low which was not really satisfactory, same with TRV's on central heating *123456 what's point in that? want degrees not worried if in F or C or even K but high med low does not cut it. So yes admitted with older units before they had LCD displays to show temperature, so on power cut it shows highest temperature reached before power returned etc. There as a problem, however still if you know the unit is using well over rated power, then you can start looking at why, and do further tests, but to take a stab in the dark and replace bits that could be faulty could end up expensive and not cure the problem.

When I found the thermostat was faulty, tried to buy one local, at 32 litre only easy enough to put in car and take for repair, could not find anywhere to take it to, or buy parts, they would come out to repair at £60 for first hour plus spares, the whole unit only cost £90 new.

Our Samsung has a 10 year warranty parts and labour on the motor and inverter, but not the body. I am sure the old Hoover was damaged from new, but how would you prove it, and it did run for a good 15 years before real fault found. Plus another 4 as brewing fridge after, only scrapped when we moved house.
 
After having the problem I have tested my units on a regular basis, well around once a year, they are over the rated figures, but not by that much
Fair enough, but I still think that there is bound to be appreciable variation due to various factors (particularly environmental and 'usage' factors), such that a stated 'energy use rating' can only ever be an approximation in relation to a real-world situation.

For example ... a fridge and/or freezer in and unheated outhouse is clearly a very different issue from one within a house which is 'kept hot' for 24/7. The amount of cold air lost (and replaced by warmer air, which hence then needs to be cooled) when one opens the door will presumably be much greater when the unit is almost empty as compared with when it is 'crammed full' of contents - so both the frequency/duration of door opening and the extent to which it is occupied by contents will presumably be important factors.

Kind Regards, John
 
Most Samsung models have repair kits available to repair this type of fault. If you do it yourself, make sure you fit every part supplied in the kit. There was a number of recalls for Samsung fridge freezers a while back, check your model and serial number is not affected Samsung were modifying the defective ones for free.
 
... so wanted to measure the temperature inside the freezer, I tried all local shops, nothing, ...
I don't know about 'local shops', but if you look on eBay you'll find any number of electronic thermometers that can measure down to -50°C, in many cases for under £3 (with free postage).

Kind Regards, John
 
I don't know about 'local shops', but if you look on eBay you'll find any number of electronic thermometers that can measure down to -50°C, in many cases for under £3 (with free postage).

Kind Regards, John
And I did by the parts from the internet, however the freezer was essential and I wanted it fixed now, not a week latter. I really did not expect to have a problem buying a simple thermometer to read -18°C, every shop with freezers has to test the freezers are within limits, but it seems the items are not sold in normal retail outlets.
 
... however the freezer was essential and I wanted it fixed now, not a week latter. I really did not expect to have a problem buying a simple thermometer to read -18°C, every shop with freezers has to test the freezers are within limits, but it seems the items are not sold in normal retail outlets.
I suppose it depends upon how impatient you were but, looking a moment ago (Sunday evening), I could order this item (which works down to -50°C), or thousands like it, now from eBay for £2.79 (with free P&P) and expect to get it on Tuesday or Wednesday ...

upload_2019-7-28_18-7-14.png


... or, if you have Homebase nearby, you could have one of these (again, down to -50°C) for £3 ...

upload_2019-7-28_18-8-43.png


... or, if B&Q is closer, and -20°C is low enough for you, then for £3.30 ...

upload_2019-7-28_18-10-53.png


... or even this standard liquid-in-glass one, at £3.27, which again goes down to -20°C.

I'm not convinced that you looked all that hard :)

Kind Regards, John
 
I was trying places like Lakeland and other cooking appliance shops, as said I did get things from the internet which cured the problem, however three days without food is a long time, until fixed I had to take food daily to my mother, for carers to heat up in microwave, I could buy meals which needed just water adding and heating on a hot plate, but typical time was 35 minutes, and carers had 25 minutes total, so needed meals which could be heated in max 15 minutes.

My mother was complaining about meals at the time, hind sight is easy, at -25°C the meals would have needed extra cooking time to -18°C but at the time, didn't know meals were being cooled to -25°C.

However thread is about a Samsung freezer not my histrionic problem, and I was pointing out, it may not be an electrical problem, and pointing out ways to find out if there was a problem with the fridge/freezers insulation. As clearly no one wants to spend out on parts if the unit is beyond economic repair. I was shocked at the cost of getting some one out to look at a freezer, £60 is a lot to pay to find out what is wrong, not so bad if they fix the problem, but that is not always the case, they could want to charge more than the unit is worth.

On my own freezer I had a maintenance contract, so having some one over 10 years visit the house 4 times, and then we got money when it was condemned not so bad, however the engineers comment of "You should stop using this now, it could fail any time, and food may not be kept cold enough in some parts of the unit." does not really help when we have no where else to put all the frozen goods.
 
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