Sash window draught stripping

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xeres

Hi everyone.

Looking for some technical advice on draught proofing sash windows I’m renovating.

My current (alternative) plan is to weatherstrip the sides of the sashes themselves, where one won’t be able to see them. I’m looking for advice on suitable weather strips. I’m thinking to use the Aquamac 21:

https://www.draftproofing.com/schlegel_aquamac.html

I have 2 specialist router cutters that can adapt it to suit 2 different depths of gaps (5-7.5mm or 1-5mm). There are 5mm gaps on either side of the stiles so it depends on how much extra friction they generate.

I’m not a big fan of pile strips as the clog up with dirt pretty quickly if they are visible. Accordingly, I’m actively avoiding using pile in the staff beads and parting bead. I could be tempted with using Schlegel weather strips in their place if plan A is inappropriate if anyone has used these before and can recommend specific ones?

Would welcome friendly critiques on my idea and practical experiences of what I’m trying to achieve.

With thanks in advance.
 
xeres, good evening.

One potential fix you may wish to consider is to replace the "Parting Beads" and fit new "Batton Rods"

The reason is that over time the timber of the beads wears, as does the rod where both of these components rub and are rubbed by the sliding sashes, this can lead to gaps forming, replace the two components above, this may ??? assist in cutting draughts?

Any chance of some images of the state of the window? especially the two components noted above.

Is there any wearing away of the timber on the rubbing surfaces of the sashes??

Ken
 
Morning KenGmac

Thanks for the reply.

I’ve stripped he windows already - new parting beads and backing rods going in. There was mortar filling the wood to brick void around the perimeter of the (external) frame which was obviously letting water (and wind) in and not adhering to the wood. The windows have had enough repairs in their life that new staff beads will be going all round also so it will have a tighter fit all round.

There was the usual rot in the cull and lower frame with evidence of previous repairs, incl to parting bead. I’ve cut out, filled and replaced as necessary.

The sashes look fine. No undue wear marks. They’re getting a paint strip and refinish.

Do you think simply renewing all this and closing in the tolerance of gaps will be sufficient? My windows are VERY big and very many - I have 21 double hung windows to renovate (not including casements and veluxs). I figured as I’d have them out anyway, some weather stripping would be of benefit.
 
xeres, good evening again.

Looks as if you are heading in the correct direction.

Have you considered using trowel applied linseed oil mastic externally? it was all the rage historically and has several advantages?

1/. Easy to apply, tends not to smear on to the masonry. use a pointing trowel [the long narrow ones]
2/. Has historically been used extensively [at least] up here.
3/. In older property the mastic was "backed" by rolled up newspapers [made for interesting reading when removed] modern equivalents are available.
4/. When troweled has a smooth finish, when dry will take a paint finish.

Down side? [there has to be one] birds love the Linseed Oil so will happily peck away bits of the lower areas of the mastic.

If the sashes move side to side to any great extent, you can plate the sides of the sashes using equally spaced strips of a hard timber, but first clean the sash sides and use a good quality wood glue and some very small headed pins to fit.

My preference would be to implement the above on say one or two windows and see how it goes, then and only then consider adding commercially available modern draught stripping.

Ken
 
Surely the strips that you are considering will just wear down and fall apart? Aren't they designed for casement windows?

Personally, I am not aware of any alternative to staff/parting bead (& meeting rail) brush piles.

You say that you have a 5mm gap- is that constant along the whole length?
 
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