Screws / rawl plugs required to hang a coat rack - brick wall?

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I have a coat rack , ie a chunky-ish strip of wood about 24 inches long, 2 inches high and around 0.5 inches thick. It has four hooks on it. There are two metal vertical strips behind it a few inches from each end, each with a hole shaped like a circle with a smaller bit on the top ( kind of like an upside down keyhole), with the circle big enough for a width of a screw. So, if the screws were to be put into the wall( with a small gap), it's a simple matter of putting the two holes over the two screws.

It's hard to say how much it weighs with no coats - guessing 1 or 1.5 kg (I was trying to compare it to the weight of a bag of sugar)

Its a 30s terraced house, standard brick wall, guessing the wall thickness is one brick-length.

What kind of screws / rawl plugs etc should I get for this, and how should I go about doing this?

Thanks
 
7mm hole, brown plugs (I.e. a 7mm plug, not one of those incorrectly sized brown Fisher plugs), 4.5 x 60 or 70mm screws should do the trick
 
7mm hole, brown plugs (I.e. a 7mm plug, not one of those incorrectly sized brown Fisher plugs), 4.5 x 60 or 70mm screws should do the trick

Thanks for this - searched for your recommendation on rawl plug ...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-plastic-plugs-7mm-100-pack/26338

Screws - there are quite a lot of different types.
As they are going into te plugs, and from this post below, can i assume wood screws will be fine?
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/wood-screws-in-brick.521137/

Thanks
 
The fixings on the rear are not ideal for coat hooks , as you lift off coats you could lift the rack off the wall , better to put screws thru the timber at each end .
 
The fixings on the rear are not ideal for coat hooks , as you lift off coats you could lift the rack off the wall , better to put screws thru the timber at each end .

Thanks Foxhole - good advice, very much appreciated, but not possible on this item.
 
Thread creep... I always (for at least 35 years) use timber plugs hammered tight into the hole. Are all my 'things' gonna fall off at some point?
 
Thread creep... I always (for at least 35 years) use timber plugs hammered tight into the hole. Are all my 'things' gonna fall off at some point?

As someone who's dabbling in this kind of thing for the first time, I couldn't say. However, I would off you a (albeit completely unqualified, baseless) guess that, if it hasn't fallen off by now, your things are unlikely to fall off any time soon.
 
For those who prefer quality and don't mind fischer, use duopower and you'll never go back to those horrible spinning brown plugs.
It will cost an 8mm drill bit if you can afford it and of course the extra for quality plugs.
Otherwise stick with the box of 200 brown for £1 and swear like a sailor when things go wrong.
 
Or just buy half decent brown plugs, such as Rawl, and don't swear...... Fischer plugs are good quality, but in the volumes we use plugs they would just be ridiculously expensive (not to mention that 8mm plugs don't allow you to drill through stuff like stud wall frames straight into masonry or concrete, knock knock through a brown plug,hammer in a 4.5, 5 or 6mm screw then tighten up - with 8mm.plugs you can only do that with 6mm screws). I find that by using the correct size drill bit which is not worn-out, blunt or bent to the point of resembling a helicopter blade when the drill is run light I have very few problems. BTW when drilling in soft or variable material it can help get a snug fit if you drill slightly smaller, e.g 6.5 or even 6.0mm.
 
Been doing that all my life, why do you say that?
Explain please, maybe I'm missing something.
The heads of quite a few 4.5 and 5.0mm screws will tend to pull through an 8mm hole in softwood (e.g. framing) - that just doesn't happen when you have a 7mm or smaller hole. 6.0mm screws are OK with the 8mm hole, but then the heads on those are pretty big. Screw head sizes vary a lot and it makes sense for me to not have to adjust plug sizes, etc for every task I undertake
 
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