sealing/repairing blown worktop

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I installed a kitchen worktop last year and underneath on the front edge it has blown where the sink is. I have had a partial refund from the company who supplied it, but I'm now looking to seal it to prevent it getting any worse and I'd be grateful for advice on what to use. I did use silicone sealant around the cut out for the sink, but it might look a bit rough as this is obviously visible to the room.

Also, should I "shave" off the areas that have blown of just seal them as they are and dab in whatever I use into the gaps?
20220607_132927.jpg
 
Can’t see any silicon on top of sink which would prevent moisture getting under worktop.
 
TBH i think silicone is going to be as good as anything. I'd just pack it i to the gaps and smear a thin coating on the underside of the sink along the front ot the sink unit(s). Surely the balancing layer that is applied to the underside of the worktop is going to give you more protection than none - after all it appears to be the joint where that layer and the decorative laminate where the failure has occurred.

I am curious as to why it's the front edge where the sink is and nowhere else.

For future reference some worktop manufacturers machine a drip-groove on the underside of the worktop specifically to reduce the instances of this type of failure
 
Thanks for the advice and I'll do that with some clear silicone. I am surprised as well, as surely they should be designed to cope with some water spilling over the edge.

Just to clarify the water damage was caused by water dripping over the front edge of the worktop.
 
Thanks for the advice and I'll do that with some clear silicone. I am surprised as well, as surely they should be designed to cope with some water spilling over the edge.

Just to clarify the water damage was caused by water dripping over the front edge of the worktop.
How did you come to that conclusion?
 
Just to clarify the water damage was caused by water dripping over the front edge of the worktop.
Pfleider (Duropal) worktops I've installed in the past have a drip groove on the underside (like you'd see on a threshold or window) which is sealed with some sort of resin to cope with just such an eventuality. I have seen post-formed chipboard tops which have failed at the point where the rolled front edge meets the bottom face - always where the sink or hob are - but these worktops are generally decades old. I had assumed that most modern worktops have a second radius edge at the bottom so that they could wrap the laminate under far enough to mitigate the effect of water running over the edge. It certainly isn't something you see a lot of nowadays
 
How did you come to that conclusion?
Because its completely dry everywhere else, there is absolutely no evidence of water leaking from anywhere and the supplier agreed. Here is another photo which might make it clearer. For the record it's an Ikea worktop.
20220211_215120.jpg
 
Am I right in thinking that is a square edges worktop with a 2 or 3mm PVC or ABS edge banding applied (at the factory)? So not a rolled edge post-formed worktop (either way, clear silicone will still work). So the fault does indeed look to be in the manufacturing with insufficient glue having been applied to the back of edging material in the glue pot edge bander.
 
Am I right in thinking that is a square edges worktop with a 2 or 3mm PVC or ABS edge banding applied (at the factory)? So not a rolled edge post-formed worktop (either way, clear silicone will still work). So the fault does indeed look to be in the manufacturing with insufficient glue having been applied to the back of edging material in the glue pot edge bander.
Yes it is a square edged worktop with a factory fitted strip, so at least I can't say it's been bodged by me!

The worktop is level and the sink is just used in the usual way so it's not been exposed to more water than normal.
 
I would see if if the damaged area will compress back down if clamped. If it will, i'd put a load of water resistant PVA into the joint and then clamp it (using cling film or similar to stop the glue sticking to the clamp) and let it set. I'd then cover the area on the underside of the work top with a clear water resistant tape, similar to what you put on the underside of a worktop when you fit a dishwasher to stop the underside of the worktop coming into contact with water.
 
Because its completely dry everywhere else, there is absolutely no evidence of water leaking from anywhere and the supplier agreed. Here is another photo which might make it clearer. For the record it's an Ikea worktop.
View attachment 271617
Splash from sink will be hitting it and lack of sealant allowing it to soak the underside.
 
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Splash from sink will be hitting it and lack of sealant allowing it to soak the underside.
Sorry, but I don't understand what you mean. Where is the "lack of sealant" and what is the splash hitting? There shouldn't be any sealant visible in either of the two photos, nor is any part of the sink visible. All the photos show is the worktop and the drawer front. Water has simply spilled on the worktop between the sink and the worktop edge and then dripped over the edge.
 
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