Self levelling and DMP on kitchen floor. Ardex NA?

[hellboy]

Hey all,

Another question here. I've lifted all the floor tiles and adhesive from the floor, but have left some deeper marks where the chisel worked extra hard! The floor has a deviation of about 12mm. Should I use Ardex rapid repair mortar to fill the deep areas, then Ardex NA to level, Ardex DPM and finish with 2mm of NA?

Second and maybe silly question, would you both doing this for the area where the units are going? The whole room is only 3x4, but the extra cost of the DPM will add up. Worth noting that the floor is a little damp, but to what extent I don't know. We did want to lay engineered wood to tie into the dining room, but have now decided against that as we don't want warped wood if the floor is damp.

Third question, does Ardex NA allow me to lay any floor covering over, is there a restriction on what adhesive I should use?

As always, thanks in advance.

 

[crazydaze]

all sounds ok, how far you take the DPM is up to you.

Most flooring can be directly laid to the Ardex NA, with the possible exception of glue-down Engineered or Solid wood although I think even that is ok nowadays.

As for adhesives, it depends what you are laying but the F-Ball website is good at explaining their ranges of adhesives (Ardit NA would be described as a slightly better screed by many professionals over F-Ball product although F-Ball do of course produce their own moisture tolerant screed - 1200 and Liquid DPM - F77)

 

[hellboy]

Thanks pal.

I've just posted in the building forum, but the external wall DPC is a course too low which would have been contributing to any damp.

I've also had a plastic sheet sealed on all sides with a cheap digital hygrometer underneath. The reading has only gone from 34 - 36% in 36 hours. I know this isn't perfect, but would you still lay a NA/DPM/NA sandwich? We'll be laying tiles and I really don't want to do unnecessary work or waste money.

I'll have a look at F-Ball now.

Thanks again.

 

[crazydaze]

NA/DPM/NA is kinda the belt and braces solution, if the subfloor is'nt too bad you could probably DPM then NA, you may need a second coat of NA.

Only tools we measure moisture with are a protimeter for quick measuring or a hydrometer box for a really accurate measurement.

Tape a carrier bag on the floor for 24hrs, if you get a shadow from the bag when you lift it up, you know you have residual moisture in the floor visually at least.

To lay LVT the floor would need a Relative Humidity reading of 75% or less.