Shower pull switch in plasterboard...

[MICH43L]

I think I know the answer to this but...

I have overboarded (underboarded?) my bathroom ceiling, made a hole and pulled through the shower cable for the pull isolator switch.

I think the old switch was just attached to the lath and plaster ceiling above, so no noggins / joists to screw into.

Of course, I didn't strategically place any supports when overboarding the ceiling. The hole is right in the middle of my 40cm span between battens.

I seem to have three choices..

• Risk using spring toggles
• Dig through furniture, carpet, underlay, lino, vapour layer, tongue and groove floorboards and old ceiling in the room above, in order to add supports to screw into.
• Get rid of the switch altogether - the shower has a dedicated mcb in the main box.

Thought about a non-pull type switch but it would look a bit daft on the ceiling.

Thoughts?

 

[333rocky333]

With double board sometimes red rawlplugs and Number 10 screws are sufficient

 

[MICH43L]

I used 25mm battens between ceilings. Bit of a gap to span.

 

[333rocky333]

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-...MIm_zk_f245gIVw7HtCh30sgugEAQYBSABEgIFHfD_BwE

Not used them myself, but the reviews seem quite positive

 

[MICH43L]

I have these:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-spring-toggles-5-x-50mm-20-pack/4257x

A combination of those and maybe some expanding foam squirted into the gap between the old and new ceilings should provide enough resistance against the ceiling being pulled down when the switch is yanked on. Still not crazy about the idea, but it might be the least worst option.

 

[jj4091]

I have these:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-spring-toggles-5-x-50mm-20-pack/4257x
maybe some expanding foam squirted into the gap between the old and new ceilings

I like that idea it's something I would never have considered, it might even be worth poking the nozzle through the hole & emptying the can into the void above. It should harden & strengthen the area above the switch enough, but I'm not sure about whether it is a fire hazard or not.

 

[Lower]

If you can get a fixing into the laths themselves, i think you'll be fine. The laths should be well supported with the original plaster and a layer of plasterboard underneath.

I'd fit the switch and see what happens. If it comes loose, then make the hole that the wires come through large enough to pass a couple of battens through that can run at 90 degrees to the laths and fix into those. A few screws through the plasterboard into those battens will make them secure, the switch will be securely fixed to the new battens with the plasterboard sandwiched inbetween and the new battens will help spread the load out across a number the original laths.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Use a normal switch rather than a pull switch (I've done exactly the same). There's no need to isolate the shower every time you use it, the normal switch will do fine for emergencies/isolation for maintenance (though i'd be knocking the MCB off as well in a house)

 

[JP_]

If you feel it might not be strong enough, then another option would be to cut a circle from a board, ply etc. then stick to ceiling (No More Nails etc), pop in a couple of screws for good measure, then screw light fitting onto that. Once painted white nobody will notice it.

 

[MICH43L]

Thanks all, I've decided to go through the floor above. Spring toggles are too big for the small hole and those pull switches are pretty stiff - lot of downward force will be created. Was tempted by the cooker switch idea, but not on a ceiling (and a high one at that).

 

[sparkwright]

Another vote for fixing to the laths for what it's worth.

 

[MICH43L]

Fortunately someone had already cut a hole in the floorboards... Put in a noggin but need some longer screws - 90s are just too short.