Skirting board questions...

robodelfy

robodelfy

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Hi, I just ripped off the old skirting in my kitchen ready for flooring.

I was surprised that there was such a gap behind to the brickwork. Is there a reason for this gap? I also see some holes in the bricks.

I'm just wondering if I should render and plaster before putting new skirting on so I get a good fix? Or should I just pack it out

Also, does damp proof membrane need to come above the floor level at all, or can I cut it back where it's longer?

Thanks
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Leave the DPM alone, the holes are from an injected DPC leave things as they are unless it is very draughty. Use wood blocks to space the brick out to plaster level and then fix your skirting to them.
 
Oh! and by the way you should be using a skirting board ladder, just send the apprentice to fetch one from the stores!:whistle:
 
footprints said:
Leave the DPM alone, the holes are from an injected DPC leave things as they are unless it is very draughty. Use wood blocks to space the brick out to plaster level and then fix your skirting to them.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks, the DPM is cut down to the floor level in everywhere but a couple of metres which is why I bought of cutting it.

I leave it as is and make blocks as you say!

I'm the apprentice and the boss. And funnily enough I was looking up carpenter jokes to take the **** out of my brother last night and read about the skirting board ladder! Otherwise I'd be asking you what it is :)
 
The reason you don't plaster down to floor level on the ground floor is because you may bridge the damp course.
Before fitting the skirting boards clear out any loose crap behind them for the same reason.
 
Hello

Sorry for digging up an old thread. On fixing batons to the bricks for fixing the skirting, can I ask would I be wise using strips of DPM behind those batons?

It's above the original dpm but I think it very good practice to be conscious of avoiding bridging. By the same token, leaving those 8" (ish) of bricks bare (unplastered) to give the maximum moisture evaporation path. I'm thinking treated 1x2" batons, one high, one low.

(About to attack mine asap!!)

Thanks!

:)
 
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