Slate Roof Verge Detail Advice

meb97me

meb97me

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Hi

I'd welcome some advice in regards to the slate roof verge detail required on my new garage build.

I'm clear on the setting out & fitting process for the battens & tiles it's just the detail of verge I'm a bit unclear on.

Would someone be so kind as to point me in the direction of a decent diagram or be able to give answers to my following questions.

FYI the gable ends are standard cavity block work which will externally rendered

The plan in my head currently is to fit slates as a cap along the gable (undercloak I think is the term??) on the on the top of the blockwork and overhang the gable by ~50mm

a) I presume these should be sat on a bed of mortar?
b) should these also be mechanically fixed into the blockwork through the mortar?
c) should these slates span both leaves of the cavity effectivity acting as a cavity closer at the top?​

d) Should the breathable membrane be cut to finish flush with edge of these undercloak tiles?

e) If the membrane is suppose to come to the edge then does the verge mortar sit on top of the membrane?

f) Should the verge slates be laid on a bed of mortar as they are laid or just the gap between the undercloak and the slate pointed up after its all been laid?​


Thank you in advance for any advice
 
It would be simpler if you had a barge board and then you could use a continues slate dry verge.
 
For a mucked verge I would overhang as you say. I would use cement board undercloaking, but if slating the roof then slate looks ok.
Sit them direct direct onto your blockwork, providing it has been cut nice and even, cut your membrane 25-40mm short of the edge of the undercloaking, and like wise end your roofing battens at the same point.
I don't bother with any fixings through the underloaking, provide the battens are tight enough to hold the undercloaking in place so it cant move, no need to span the cavity. If using slates I wouldn't use any mortar when laying, but for tiles a small dollop won't hurt, right at the head of the tile below or better still use verge clips.
 
chappers said:
If using slates I wouldn't use any mortar when laying, but for tiles a small dollop won't hurt, right at the head of the tile below or better still use verge clips.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm not imagining this right - but won't there be a 25mm gap between the undercloak and slate - so wouldn't you bed them down as you go rather than having to point it up afterwards?

Related question - I did a garage using Chappers method a couple of years ago, and it worked very well. I'm now planning a roof like this for a house extension and thinking of doing a gable ladder so that I have a rafter/barge-board 200mm over-hanging the gable, and then doing what you describe above with cement board. Is there any reason other than aesthetics and cost/simplicity to choose one over the other?
 
garyo said:
chappers said:
If using slates I wouldn't use any mortar when laying, but for tiles a small dollop won't hurt, right at the head of the tile below or better still use verge clips.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm not imagining this right - but won't there be a 25mm gap between the undercloak and slate - so wouldn't you bed them down as you go rather than having to point it up afterwards?
Click to expand...

yeah that's the gap your going to point, you could bed it as you go but I never have, always pointed it up after, for tiles a little dollop under the lap helps to hold them in place, but better off using verge clips
 
Garyo its going to depend how you are going to construct your roof, gable ladders are mainly for truss roofs. And so if its a cut roof you can fix your barge board to the ridge/purlin and wall plate.
 
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