Sound proofing project

C

craig51

Joined
5 Aug 2006
Messages
539
Reaction score
34
Country
United Kingdom
See Attached plan.

I live in a terraced house, and my bedroom shares a party wall with my neighbours bedroom. This wall from what I can gather is just masonary, cant here any type of void, and there is defo no plasterboard.

As such, in the mornings i can hear his alarm clock, closing and opening doors, and runnig a tap in his bathroom. Also, at night when they have friends around, I can also hear muffled voices and laughter. As you can guess, this is all VERY annoying. I think half the issue is that he has lifted EVERY carpet and just sanded the original floorboards, which amplifys the sound.

So, I am going to soundproof my bedroom wall which is shared with his bedroom, and also my wall which is shared with MY bathroom.

I plan on tackling this like this.

1/Fixed battons (4x2) to said walls with a sound reducer material between wall and battons.
2/Infill with some sort of sound proofing material.
3/Attach plaster board
4/Line and paint to match room.

However, i do have some questions.

1/ On the shared wall, there is a socket. How would i get this to come forward enough to meet my 'new ' wall.
2/ What sound I use in between the old wall and the ne wplaster board. Is there some sort of amazing fangled soundproofing material, or will insultion do?
3/ Any advice/suggestion please!


163507583-M.jpg
 
The walls you're building - isolate them totally from the main wall. Fix them to the wall and ceiling using sound proof fixings if possible. I'd think rockwool type stuff would be a good sound insulator. Again, i would try to space the plasterboard from the studwork, perhaps using some sort of rubber seal.

The socket - it depends how the wires run. You may be able to pull them out of the plaster and find enough slack to reach the new location.
 
I was doing some research, and came across this
"Resilient wall linings are one of the most popular treatments for existing dwellings in Scotland. Where an increase in wall thickness is acceptable this construction system provides a combination of key ingredients including isolation, resilience and absorption.
An absorption lining composed of 13mm (33–36kg/m3) or 25mm mineral wool (10–20kg/m3) or equivalent absorption material is applied to the wall face. Metal or timber straps are then fastened to the wall through the quilt layer, creating a resilient connection. The straps then support vertical channels or ribs for the fixing of dry lining boards. Metal straps generally perform better than timber straps as the fixings create less contact between the wall and the lining. Metal straps also make it easier to vertically align the wall.
This technique is very useful in providing resilience to horizontal impact sounds, e.g. closing doors or plugs being inserted into sockets, from the adjoining dwelling and may avoid the need for independent linings"

What are straps?????
 
your original idea is the right choice. we did it in my mates house this summer.
simply build an independant sud wall 10mm off the existing wall, fill with ISO wool its rock wool that supposedly deadens sound, then for the plaster use iso board (coloured blue if you get the british gypsum stuff) and his bedroom is now silent. no need for special fixings although that would help. we simply used dry wall screws

and as for the socket, if there is enough slack in the cable fit a bit of timber between two of the new studs at the right position so the face of the new socket box is held to where the back of the plaster bard would be. feed the cables through, board the wall, and then fit the face using some long machine screws
 
So the stud wall would be screwed to the existing side walls and foor, and NOT the party wall?

Is this right?

Going to start this next weekend once the bathroom is done!
 
Cheers guys, should be quite easy i wold think.

One more question. should I lift the carpet, floor boards, and also ram insulation in there incase the floor is transmitting noise as well?
 
craig51: can you let us know how you getting on. i'm planning exactly the same for my home cenima / living room which shares with a neighbour.
 
will do, but this has been postponed until next weekend, as i am far too bust at the moment in the garden.
 
The best way to sort this out is to use an independent wall lining constructed of timber stud work or metal studs (see http://www.british-gypsum.com/systems/system_selector/gyplyner_iwl.aspx).
Board this with 2 x 15mm Gyproc SoundBloc boards and 25mm Isover APR insulation in the cavity. This is probably the best performing option you have. Don't forget to lift the carpets and floor boards and fill with insulation as this will help reduce flanking transmission.
If you want a cheaper option just line the walls with timber battens and line these with SoundBloc board and insulation in the cavity.

Aaron
 
Thank you Aaron, for finding the solution to this 2 year old problem. :wink:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top