Square edge worktop join

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pgtips

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Hi,

Hoping to gain some experience please.
I've seen a video where a kitchen fitter heats up the edge of the worktop and strips it with a chisel , then sands the glue away and joins it using worktop clamps and clear sealant.

I'm joining 2 square edges of laminate that have a grain (very nice wood looking) that will unavoidably go in different directions so the join will always be visible.

The worktop comes with edges are preglued and very clean/square and I'm using clamps so I'm wondering, what is the advantage to removing the clean laminate edge.?

Thank you in advance,
Kev
 
If you leave it you will end up with a 1.5mm x 2 - 3mm or maybe 2mm strip between the join, you will see a line but if you remove it then all that you will see is a 90 degree change of direction of grain but then if you are not careful when you sand it will not be a perfect but join
 
The male part of the joint won't have the laminate edge but the female will. If you leave the laminate edge on the female the top surface of the male joint will be a slightly above the edging of the female as the top of edging has a slight radius.

This will definitely chip through use, you won't be able to seal it properly either.

Clear silicone isn't for worktop joins, use Bushboard Complete or worst case Colorfil.

The male edge will need cutting with a half inch router and 50mm flute cutter.

If you don't own a half inch router, get a professional in, it'll be cheaper than replacing all of your worktops.
 
Hi, Thanks for all the replies.

Just so the question makes a bit more sense, All this stems from wanting longevity and triggered by a different worktop I am fitting. It's a lovely wood effect, very realistic right down to grain but that's its potential weakness (to me with nil experience of this type of worktop) , the join will never ever be smooth. Flush yes to some extent but not smooth due to its grain. I'm concerned water/humidity etc will get in over time so i was questioning if I remove the edging or not.

In the past my own smooth worktops have, after many many years, eventually shown signs of blistering where the joins have edging removed (glued and biscuit but not clamped).. so that was why I asked the Q as part of me was considering is it better to leave the smooth factory finish edge on in the first place, clamped/glued.

Bushboard I have not come across that before so thanks for the pointer I'll look at that as it will help with a solution..
 
pgtips said:
Hi, Thanks for all the replies.

Just so the question makes a bit more sense, All this stems from wanting longevity and triggered by a different worktop I am fitting. It's a lovely wood effect, very realistic right down to grain but that's its potential weakness (to me with nil experience of this type of worktop) , the join will never ever be smooth. Flush yes to some extent but not smooth due to its grain. I'm concerned water/humidity etc will get in over time so i was questioning if I remove the edging or not.

In the past my own smooth worktops have, after many many years, eventually shown signs of blistering where the joins have edging removed (glued and biscuit but not clamped).. so that was why I asked the Q as part of me was considering is it better to leave the smooth factory finish edge on in the first place, clamped/glued.

Bushboard I have not come across that before so thanks for the pointer I'll look at that as it will help with a solution..
Click to expand...
The thing to understand about worktop joints is, regardless of which adhesive you use,to seal the joint, the adhesive/sealant does not guarantee a water proof joint. The joint is water resistant.

It takes just a pin prick gap for standing water to seep through and blow the joint.

This is why worktop joints generally are fitted as far away as is possible from sinks and hobs and we strongly advise the kettle isn't near a joint. A proper joint that is looked after will last for years and years.

If you leave the laminate edge on and form the joint, I reckon it will last 6 - 12 months max.
 
opps said:
@pgtips Why were they not clamped?
Click to expand...
literally taking apart today, in fairness it wasn't me who assembled but I see there's biscuits and its glued well, but no clamps.

@chirpychippy you nailed it, so obvious but I hadn't thought about it, right above the join is where the kettle sits... it (the kettle) is in its logical home due to socket placement but that's not a good spot. Sockets forced it to go there so by adding additional sockets then the kettle can relocate.
thank you again for the help and sharing knowledge (y)
 
pgtips said:
literally taking apart today, in fairness it wasn't me who assembled but I see there's biscuits and its glued well, but no clamps.
Click to expand...

Fair play. Perhaps they hammered in wedges (temporarily) to close the joint.
 
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