Strange problem with Gardtec 816 (v 2.7 s/w)

[Robin M]

We've had this alarm for years... no problems at all, we were well-advised on choice and we use all 16 zones in EOL mode. However, it's no longer possible to set the alarm or to access the Engineer mode... the display functions, the time/date displayed on the remote panel runs, each code is correctly identified with the associated user, BUT...

The display does not go beyond "Do you want to.. Set, [User]?" or "Do you want to.. Use ENGNR. Mode?" as appropriate. At that point, "Yes", "No", and "0" (to step back in the displayed menu) have no effect. The panel is not frozen, because entering any valid code again at that stage returns the user to the normal display. This did not occur after an activation, which of course requires a reset, but we can't set it. I've tried a cold restart, but the only difference is of course that we now cannot set the correct time/date because of the above!

Problem with the EEPROM, maybe? The tamper circuits are operative and three of the zones are wired to panic buttons in 24-hour mode but for the sake of our neighbours' hearing (the internal and external sounders still work!) we can't test if those activate - I'm betting that they would. No errors are displayed on the display - the LED version - but I'm not in a position to interrogate the log (I used to download it to a Psion Organiser!).

Any suggestions?

 

[sparkymarka]

Are you sure that there are no panic buttons pressed in ?

 

[Robin M]

Are you sure that there are no panic buttons pressed in ?

Hi sparkymarka,

Thanks for the response. The panic buttons are momentary (non-latching), so don't need physically resetting, as the alarm latches and the sounder continues even if the button is released.

Am I right in thinking that you asked that because these symptoms would be explained by one of the alarm inputs being (electrically) in the "trigger" state? I'm happy to get active with a multimeter (and, obviously, with the system powered down!) to rule that out, if so. But I would have thought that in such a case the panel would still allow engineer mode to be entered so that such an issue could be diagnosed by the panel's test modes. And if the system had been triggered in our absence, it should have needed to be reset on our return.

 

[Handymanjo]

Was your system installed by a installer.
Did you have access to engineer code before inital problem.
When you say cold start, what did you do. A total power down and power back up or was this a default system codes.

 

[Robin M]

Hi, Handymanjo...

Was your system installed by a installer.

The wiring was put in by the house builder's electrician and I installed the sensors and panel.

Did you have access to engineer code before inital problem.

Yes, all was well.

When you say cold start, what did you do. A total power down and power back up or was this a default system codes.

The former... disconnection of internal back-up battery and power removed for >10 seconds.

 

[Handymanjo]

How many keypads on your system.
You mention a LED keypad , do you have a LCD version.
Possible keypad could be faulty. That control panel is now obsolete and no spare parts available.
Option would be to change control panel and keypad and reuse detectors.

 

[Robin M]

How many keypads on your system.
You mention a LED keypad , do you have a LCD version.
Possible keypad could be faulty. That control panel is now obsolete and no spare parts available.
Option would be to change control panel and keypad and reuse detectors.

Thanks for the response, Handymanjo. Oops! Typo in the original post... it's the LCD keypad that we have (2 rows x 16 characters).

Update: I found that it probably is the keypad that's faulty, because although the display continues to show "Do you want to.. Use ENGNR. Mode?" after entering the engineer code, the system is definitely already in engineer mode, because the keypad anti-tamper sounder is disabled - and the security codes are stored in the panel EEPROM, not in the keypad. If a user code is entered, the anti-tamper is still active.

If anyone out there has a redundant Gardtec 800 series keypad (or compatible) they are willing to sell me - preferably but not necessarily the LCD version - that would be great, to see if that resolves things. I'm in Cheshire and can collect within a reasonable distance, or postage paid if preferred.

 

[sparkymarka]

I would take the keypad off and wire direct with a short lead to rule out wiring fault…( data wire faulty ) I’ve only ever had to change gardtec keypads for two reasons …..A display faded away …..B keypad blows the fuse when connected ….