Stud wall help

[Aidy Gourlay]

Hi all,

I’ve just had our kitchen designed and I need to extend a single skin wall out by 200mm.

Currently I have all the ceilings down and walls back to brick as it’s a renovation project me and my partner have took on.

Im hoping someone can help in the best way of constructing and fixing a stud wall.

I’ve attached some photographs to help.

Thanks in advance,
Aidan

 

[foxhole]

Stud fixed to brick below steel, another at end of stud and connect with noggins before boarding

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Expose the steel above (by removing the plasterboard) and fix a "soldier" into the web in line with the line of the wall extension. Replace the PB

Make up a stud frame on the floor which is the height between the floor and ceiling. It needs to be a snug fit, and the outermost upright needs to be removeable (note the screw orientation on my scrawl)



Knock into place, ensuring that the outermost upright is plumb. Pack off the nib of the wall as required. Unscrew and remove the outermost upright. Drill, plug and screw the frame to the floor and wall nib. Screw through the PB and into the soldier - use packings as required. Replace the outermost upright using two screws at each joint. Board. Positioning has to take into account dotting a dabbing. Whilst it would be nice to fix the frame at ceiling level it may not be feasible to do this and in any case the PB skin will impart some extra rigidity onto the situation. You could always shew a couple of longer screws through the header from opposite sides - justvwatch outvfor pipes and wiring a ove. (were it 300 to 400mm long I'd be looking for a joist)

 

[Aidy Gourlay]

Expose the steel above (by removing the plasterboard) and fix a "soldier" into the web in line with the line of the wall extension. Replace the PB

Make up a stud frame on the floor which is the height between the floor and ceiling. It needs to be a snug fit, and the outermost upright needs to be removeable (note the screw orientation on my scrawl)



Knock into place, ensuring that the outermost upright is plumb. Pack off the nib of the wall as required. Unscrew and remove the outermost upright. Drill, plug and screw the frame to the floor and wall nib. Screw through the PB and into the soldier - use packings as required. Replace the outermost upright using two screws at each joint. Board. Positioning has to take into account dotting a dabbing. Whilst it would be nice to fix the frame at ceiling level it may not be feasible to do this and in any case the PB skin will impart some extra rigidity onto the situation. You could always shew a couple of longer screws through the header from opposite sides - justvwatch outvfor pipes and wiring a ove. (were it 300 to 400mm long I'd be looking for a joist)

Thanks guys, JobandKnock is there supposed to be a drawing attached? I'm unable to see it for some reason? Thanks again