Suspended floor joists and damp

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Hi there. I am working on a 1930’s Edwardian terrace house. Dining room floor was in bad condition, the rear 75% of the floor was heavily damaged by woodworm – I could literally tear the boards up with my bare hands and they disintegrated – and the last 25% of the floor nearest the rear wall/outside was also rotten.

The joists along the back wall all have areas of rot, some have totally fallen away, and all show signs of woodworm – unsure if it’s still active or happened sometime in the last 90 years, either way I’m thinking its probably best to replace them all given the state of the wood.

When I took the floor up, the two worst areas of rot in the joists were the two rear corners – assume due to poor air circulation. Joists were not set into the walls, they were sat on sleeper walls (? apologies if I get terminology wrong – three in total; each spanning the width of the room with one at either end and one across the middle of the room.) The sleeper wall at the back of the house was, in areas, totally buried in dirt that had blown in through the air brick, all but one of the honeycombed holes were blocked up, and one corner seemed to have a large pile of dumped lime.. something? See below, looks like cement or plaster maybe? It was hard but not solid like modern cement (the other side of this corner is the outside toilet, not sure if that’s relevant/it was dumped there when that was build) I’ve cleared all of this out for better air circulation in future.

IMG_1892.jpg


Looks like a slate DPC along the back wall – I cleared out all the junk from under the floor two days ago and am waiting to see if the area dries out, or if it stays damp and there’s more of a problem than just the cavity being full of soil/crap.

IMG_1895.jpg


Now for the replacement. Current joists are 2” x 3.5” (around 51mm x 89mm). I cannot find direct replacements of the same dimensions, but was thinking to replace wit c24 47x100 or 47x97, which would only raise the floor up by 8 or 11mm. At 400mm centres, I believe this is good for 2.24m. My room is 3895 long by 3100 across, with the sleeper wall across the middle – so I think these are slightly overspec’d but this is to be my open plan kitchen/diner/family room so high footfall and I want it solid. I believe I shouldn’t put noggins where the centre sleeper wall is for airflow reasons, but was thinking two rows of noggins either side (roughly one meter from the front and rear walls), as below:

Screenshot 2023-03-01 at 23.06.15.png

The 97mm joists will only allow for 75mm Celotex.. but I don’t want to take the floor any higher than I have to. On top of this will be 18mm chipboard or OSB3, followed by an engineered wood floor glued down.

So what I would really like to know is, am I right? Are the joists I have selected up to the job, or do they need to be chunkier or closer together? There is only one air brick across the rear of the house so I think I need to add another – though eventually the plan is for the rear of the house to come off and an extension be added. Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance for any advice/criticisms!
 
Get as much ventilation in there as you can. Good airflow is paramount with suspended wooden floors.
 
Thank you for the response.

I wasn’t sure on if there could be too much (causing it to be quite cold?) but was wondering if I should add an extra air brick to each corner where the worst damage was.

The dwarf wall(?) running parallel to the rear wall of the house has three 8-10inch holes in it, but only the centre one was unblocked when I took the floor up. These are now clear. The centre sleeper wall however only has the one 1ft gap in the middle of it (essentially it’s two separate walls), should I knock a brick or two out of this to give more airflow?
 
You'll find 4 x 2 on that (1600 or so ) span will be a bit bouncy. The way round that is prop the centre spans (use offcuts of 4 x 2, make sure there's DPM under the ends where they hit the ground. Or use 6 x 2 but you'll need to do some work on the dwarf walls to keep your existing FFL.
Talking of dpm, if you lay a sheet on the subfloor you'll reduce the water vapour getting into the subfloor. Ideally you'd put 50mm of concrete or gravel on it to hold it down but make sure you keep at least 150mm clearance between underside of joists (or insulation) and subfloor.
Ventilation- the more the merrier under there, yes take a brick or 2 out of the centre wall, yes put additional air bricks in.
Insulation- another advantage of 6 x 2 is you could chuck 150mm loft roll in the gaps- much easier than cutting PIR to size. Strawberry net or chickenwire under the joists to stop it dropping out.
 
Thank you for the response and advice.

Part of the reason why I wanted to use 2x4’s is that at the other end of the room, the current joists share a dwarf wall with the next room, so altering the dwarf wall height would mean tacking that room at the same time and I’m not ready to do that yet.

Bouncy is not ideal however. When you say ‘prop with offcuts’, do you mean vertical 2x4’s in line with the noggins on my sketchup drawing? Would it be better if I build two more honeycomb walls instead or would all the walls have a negative impact on airflow?

Noted on the DPM, I will measure the gap but I think I have about 400mm so 50mm concrete would be fine. Thanks for this idea.

Noted on ventilation - will action all of this.

Regarding insulation, I had researched loft insulation/rock wool etc. in nets and thought I would get the best performance from PIR - is that not correct? In terms of ease of fitting, all wiring and plumbing will be removed and replaced above floor level - and with the new joists evenly spaced (unlike the current mismatch of gaps!), I figured it wouldn’t be too difficult to cut regular strips of insulation to fit in? Never done this so please correct me if I’m talking rubbish - I don’t mind a bit of graft for better performance however
 
Regarding insulation, I had researched loft insulation/rock wool etc. in nets and thought I would get the best performance from PIR - is that not correct? In terms of ease of fitting, ... I figured it wouldn’t be too difficult to cut regular strips of insulation to fit in?
Yes, PIR is better insulator than loft roll.
But:
a) So much easier to fit loft roll
b) Absolute performance isn't too critical as you're not going to be losing too much through the floor anyway
c) loft roll is easier to remove/reinstate if you need access underneath for whatever reason [probably a minor consideration]
d) loft roll is cheaper

Closing the gaps between under floor and the habitable space may do more for thermal comfort than the insulation will.
Props will be fine.
 
Okay great. Struggling to get my head around these props though, is it a timber upright on a concrete base with a metal T plate connecting to the joist? A picture would be really helpful! Thanks
 
oldbutnotdead literally just means a piece of timber at 90° to the joists. The exact detail of how it's done is down to you, subject to some sensible precautions:

- Some sort of barrier to stop it pulling up moisture
- No point having the end of the prop going into earth, it will just compact it and no longer be a prop. See obnd's note about laying concrete, or use a small paving slab
- Fixings to stop it falling over

Props aren't a replacement for a dwarf wall as they doesn't give lateral restraint, it's to support the mid-span and take out any bounce.
 
Got it, thanks for explaining. Would it be best to do this to every joist (both sides of the dwarf wall running down the centre of the room) or would every other work just as well? Suspect more = better..

Presumably if I lay DPM sheet with 50mm concrete over the whole area, it won’t be necessary to put additional membrane under the props but guessing a belt and braces approach and doing that anyway won’t hurt.

Final thought - the sole plates (?.. the timber laying on top of the current dwarf walls) are pretty spongy/woodworm ridden so will also replace when I do the joists. Do these need to meet any particular specification? Assume I want ti chop off the old mortar, then add fresh mortar, DPM, 2x4 c24 + shims to level if needed?
 
I'd run a layer of DPM along the dwarf walls to sit the sole plates(?) on, and maybe wrap some around the ends of the joists for further protection.
 
Been looking at the loft roll route for insulation, seems some people are using a roofing membrane over netting, does anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks
 
I sat my insulation into a barrier mesh cradle.
Once the insulation was complete I applied building paper to the top of the rafters before the floorboards went down.
 
When I said ‘roofing membrane over netting’ I meant instead of netting - will learn to proof read!
 
Yes, the bright orange stuff, it's cheap, strong and can be tacked/stapled/screwed.
 
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