Terminating Shotgun Satellite Cable

[imroberts]

Is it possible to terminate a twin shotgun style satellite cable into an F socket, or is the cable too thin or have too few strands in the screen to make a decent contact into a socket?

I'm talking the thinner Shotgun cable that Sky install, not a twin WF100 cable.

I'd prefer to terminate my cable runs into surface mount F sockets for neatness as they won't all be in use immediately, but if it's significantly better to terminate directly to plugs I shall do that.

Are there any compression or crimp type plugs which will fit this cable or are the only variety the standard twist type?

 

[Lucid]

One of the most important things you need to consider when terminating RF cables is maintaining the shield integrity. It's why people have so many problems with signal interference with cheaper unshielded wall plates for Freeview; but satellite signals are just as vulnerable, maybe even more so.

There are a couple of solutions to this. The first is modular wall plates. The F-sockets will take WF65 just as easily as WF100, and it's just one connection point per module, so these are quick to fit. You'll get two grid module units (IOW, 2 x F sockets) in to a single-gang frame which is the same size as a standard light switch. If you go for double-gang then you'll be able to fit 4x single modules, or two double modules, or a double and two singles.

The other way is a wall plate with what amounts to one or two F back-to-back barrel connectors installed in it. This is just as good for shielding, but because the back face of the sockets stick out at 90 degrees, any cable attached with a straight plug end is also going to stick out at 90 degrees. You won't have enough room even with the deepest back-box to get the cable to bend and fit without kinking. What you use then is a 90 degree (right angle) F connector. The cable path goes WF65 > F-plug end > 90 degree adapter > wall plate barrel.


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[imroberts]

One of the most important things you need to consider when terminating RF cables is maintaining the shield integrity. It's why people have so many problems with signal interference with cheaper unshielded wall plates for Freeview; but satellite signals are just as vulnerable, maybe even more so.

There are a couple of solutions to this. The first is modular wall plates. The F-sockets will take WF65 just as easily as WF100, and it's just one connection point per module, so these are quick to fit. You'll get two grid module units (IOW, 2 x F sockets) in to a single-gang frame which is the same size as a standard light switch. If you go for double-gang then you'll be able to fit 4x single modules, or two double modules, or a double and two singles.

The other way is a wall plate with what amounts to one or two F back-to-back barrel connectors installed in it. This is just as good for shielding, but because the back face of the sockets stick out at 90 degrees, any cable attached with a straight plug end is also going to stick out at 90 degrees. You won't have enough room even with the deepest back-box to get the cable to bend and fit without kinking. What you use then is a 90 degree (right angle) F connector. The cable path goes WF65 > F-plug end > 90 degree adapter > wall plate barrel.

Thanks again for your in depth reply!

Given where I need to terminate one of the satellite cables, sinking any kind of wall box isn't an option and I'd rather avoid a pattress box if I can due to the depth behind a cabinet.

In this case my only option really is a surface mount F socket - I accept they are cheap and cheerful and unscreened so I guess the question is, is this likely to degrade the signal significantly and would I be better simply bringing the cable through the floor and termating with plugs, or will it be fine?

I don't mind flying leads in the loft and under the stairs and everywhere else I hide my equipment away, but I prefer everything terminated in sockets in the likes of the living room, but if it's going to be significantly worse I can get over my obsessive nature in this instance

I must admit, I've seen the wall plates which simply look like a back to back F connector in the past and wondered how on earth you'd get something like a WF100 with a plug into the backbox behind it - I'd never even considered a 90 degree connector - even with that it feels like you'd probably need a 35mm or even a 47mm back box and perfection on the amount of "spare" cable you leave in the backbox?

 

[Lucid]

When you said about surface mount, I had in mind that you meant something like this with a direct cable connection and no shielding: LINK

However, maybe you were thinking of something more along the lines of THIS? It's simply a back-to-back barrel connector in an angled housing.

 

[imroberts]

Sorry, I was thinking of the latter.

I've fitted these type of sockets in the past with coax connectors rather than F connectors and they had very crude, soldered, screw terminals on the rear, like this:
https://digitaliselectronics.uk/wp-...LET-WITH-SCREWS-WALL-PLATE-390192640191-3.JPG

If the F type outlets are simply F couplers in a housing, that seems the way to go given what I want to achieve.

If I bought some and they turned out to be connected like the coax one I've pictured above, would you trust it personally or would you terminate in plugs?

 

[Lucid]

Thanks for the image. That's helpful.

The back of that angle adapter does look particularly horrible.

Personally, when it comes to RF, I wouldn't trust anything that isn't properly shielded. It might have been possible to get away with these kinds of bodge products back in the pre-DVB age, but now it's just not worth the risk.

Regarding the surface mount F connector sockets, I would suggest contacting a seller to ask them to confirm if it is the same front and back.