Texecom Premier Elite - Help - Cant clear Supervisor Fault/No RF Signal

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Warning: this is a long post. Thank you in advance if you have the patience to read.

Hi, I had an Texecom Premier Elite alarm system installed around 3 years ago. The alarm company that I used have been pretty bad on the customer service front (hence why I havnt just gone back to them with this). Im hoping you guys can give some guidance.

This evening, the alarm starts beeping - whilst I was in the house and the alarm wasnt armed. When I checked the alarm it showed system alerts - showed an alert from the sensor in my master bedroom. I went t have a look, nothing. I went back downstairs to arm/disarm the keypad to reset and clear the alarm. I doesn't let me reset. The error message I'm getting is:
"Supervision Flt:
Zone 009
Front Door
Door Contact"
I've also checked the logs - there's a bunch of log entries in the last hour:
20:47.38 Area: A... MasterBed Motion Detector No RF Signal
20:47.38 Area: A... Wireless SounderExternal Siren No No RF Signal
20:47.08 Area: A... Wireless Keypad No RF Signal 040
20:46.37 Area: A... Hallway Motion Detector No RF Signal
20:35.37 Area: A.... Radio Jammed

I've attached some photos/screenshots for reference.

I've tried to google the problem; and have read a number of threads.

My initial thoughts are:
1. Something happened early with actually did jam the RF signal - I need to reset this somehow?
2. All of the sensors + alarm batteries have all failed at the same time? (I have not changed had the batteries since I installed the alarm system around 3 years ago - see below).
I was hoping for some advice?
Either to fix the problem - or to help ask the right question for an engineer to fix.

Background
I've given some additional background below to explain why I second guessing what to do.
1. I had the alarm system installed about three years ago.

2. For the last three years, I kept getting problems with the alarm. I also paid £100 extra to get the texecom mobile APP. First, let me just saw its dreadful. Second, it keeps failing to connect.

3. The most common problem is the APP doesnt work. The second problem is every few month, the alarm keeps beeping every 15mins - normally in the middle of the night. When I check the keypad it says "ATS path fail".

4. The first few times, I called the alarm company. First they always took the next day to respond by phone. I have a young baby - have the constant beeping through the night was not a fun experience. By the morning, the beeping had stopped. By the time the alarm company called me back, they couldnt see the problem. They sent an engineer down - he said it was something to do with the "Texecom server side" - and did something to the settings so that the "it would cause a delay so that it wouldnt beep.

5. The problem kept coming back. Each time, the problem it was evening time - and eventually disappeared after about 6 hours. So the problem resolved itself before the alarm company got back to me.

6. This was pretty unsatisfactory - and I spent weeks googling this (and searching this forum). What I finally realised was that this was to do with my WIFI router's WIFI channel - there are certain channels that the Texecom system simply doesnt connect to. By swapping the channel, the system would relink to my WIFI. The beeps were a warning that it could not connect to the internet (and presumably the Texecom server? - though why it needs to do this is beyond me).

7. Actually, what finally let me realise the problem was that I also have a Ring Doorbell and Floodlight; and it tells you in its instructions that certain WIFI channels dont work.
8. Recently, I changed my internet provider - and had to change the internet router. The Texecom starts beeping and giving the ATS error again. What I realised was that I needed to update the wifi name and password on the ComWifi module, so it can connect to my home wifi. This would have been set up by the alarm company engineer originally - who would have changed the default username/password.

9. So, I contact the alarm company - ask for the username/password - because I feel I should be given this - as I paid for the alarm and installation - and ask for an instruction manual on the system. The reply I received is: 1. the wrong manual; and 2. I am told that "they do not change passwords on smartcom modules".
10. I "know" that I didnt change the module - as I have not touched it since installation and it is no longer the default username/password.
11. I explain the situation and that I need the username/password in order to update the settings to use with my internet provider.
12. The alarm company then tells me that to reset and reconnect this will require an engineer to attend and there will be a charge of £180+VAT.

13. I refuse - and decide to go back to my old router to "work around this problem".

14. Also, worth mentioning, when I took out the alarm - they "offered" a yearly £135+VAT annual service - to "check the alarm and change the batteries" + 24hour technical support.
I was so unimpressed by the service in the first couple of months that I declined this - hence have never had the batteries changed.

To sum up, I have not had a good experience with this alarm (and my wife is not happy with the alarm/me - especially each time the beeping wakes her up - or she is out and cant set the alarm because the APP fails to connect).

I am almost tempted to rip the alarm out - except, I don't know how to do it myself - presumably as soon as I open the panel the tamper alarm goes off. I was warned by the alarm company not to touch the base unit! and I don't fancy going back to the alarm company to beg them uninstall the alarm - for which I am sure they will charge me an arm and leg for!
Sorry for the long post. This is me part-venting at the situation! Anyone who is still reading - thank you for your time; and I'd appreciate any guidance.

Queries:
1. is there an easy fix for the system alert?
2. is there a step by step guide to replace batteries? can I do this without an "engineer code"? as above, I wasnt given any codes or even the username/password for the wifi module.
3. if i need the alarm company to come out to fix the problem, how much should this cost?
4. if i need the alarm company to come out to fix the problem, how much should this cost?

Thank you again for your time
IMG_4071.PNG IMG_4072.PNG IMG_4073.jpg IMG_4074.jpg IMG_4075.jpg
 
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It can probably all sorted remotely. But i have too much vino to be accurate right now.

But batteries are the first point, secondly your on the old app with a comip or comwifi?


Menu 4 will give you panel and version number
 
Hi, is there a dummies guide somewhere to replacing the batteries (including what type and how not to make the alarm go off)?

I took a photo (below) of the version of the system and APP.

thanks.
IMG_4099.jpg IMG_4101.PNG
 
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You need the engineers code for the panel.

Once in engineering you can change the batteries without the alarm going off, if the engineer enabled the panels battery swap mode you should have access via the mater user code to change put the panel in battery change mode.

https://www.secureiam.co.uk/battery_calculators.html

You can use the battery calculator that I made, so you would want the Texecom Ricochet option.
basically enter the qty of each wireless device you have and it will provide a battery list, I would like feedback on that.
It is relatively upto date so most devices if not all should be on there.
 
Hi SecureIam, thanks. I wasn't given the engineers code....
If there a way to do this without it? or to reset somehow?
 
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you can reset the engineers code if the panels NVM isn't locked, some do some don't.

you can use the master code and see if you have access to the battery swap option.

You may be able to recover the UDL passcode details from your app also, been a long time since i used the old app, and not sure if you can find that if you login as a master user, but its possible the engineers login to the app was never changed.
 
The ATS fault is something different and be better off with Texecom Connect App and a smart com, but you will need he engineers code and it be better if you flashed the panel up to version 5.x

but first things first
 
you can reset the engineers code if the panels NVM isn't locked, some do some don't.

you can use the master code and see if you have access to the battery swap option.

You may be able to recover the UDL passcode details from your app also, been a long time since i used the old app, and not sure if you can find that if you login as a master user, but its possible the engineers login to the app was never changed.

Thanks @secureiam , I entered the master code and couldn't find the battery swap option - but I did find the UDL passcode on the App! :D
Is the UDL code same as the engineers code?

I did a test by putting the "UDL code" into the keypad - and the screen displays "YES to Select:- Zone Setup"

Sorry if this is a stupid question - but what do you recommend I do next?

Is there a easy to clear the alert first?

Do you think its likely a battery problem? I do want to change these in any case, as its been three years.

I had a look at your battery calculator page. Sorry, I'm bit sure what is what.
I have one front door sensor: IMG_4214.jpg

and three motion sensors: IMG_4215.jpg


From googling and comparing the names on your calculator page, I think its a Premier Elite Micro Contact-W *Uses 1 x CR2450; and three Premier Compact PW-W
*Uses 1 x CR123A.

Please let me know if you think I've got it wrong. Otherwise, I'll go ahead any order some batteries online.

From reading the forums, I can see there's someway to get the system to "pause and not go off", whilst we change the batteries. Have I got that right? Do I then need to "relink" the sensors to the system somehow?

Sorry - I know these must be really basic questions for you. Im a newbie when it comes to alarms, and appreciate any assistance and "dummies guides" you are willing to share.

Thanks again.
 
cock on, I did look at adding pictures of the items to the calculator, however I may relook at that.

The UDL code isn't always the engineers code, fortunately it was for you. If it wasn't and you had the UDL code I could have reset the engineers code if you didnt have wintex.

once into engineering (shows zone setup) replace the batteries, once finished exit engineering, or you could program up the battery replacement in global options, config options (57 I think) its near the back end.

I would look at replacing the comip module with a smart com, to help eliminate ATS faults, but the main thing is to try and resolve your radio jamming/ supervision faults which is likely to be due to your batteries running low/flat.
 
To get the best from a smart com, you would need to manually flash the panel to Version 5.
 
cock on, I did look at adding pictures of the items to the calculator, however I may relook at that.

The UDL code isn't always the engineers code, fortunately it was for you. If it wasn't and you had the UDL code I could have reset the engineers code if you didnt have wintex.

once into engineering (shows zone setup) replace the batteries, once finished exit engineering, or you could program up the battery replacement in global options, config options (57 I think) its near the back end.

I would look at replacing the comip module with a smart com, to help eliminate ATS faults, but the main thing is to try and resolve your radio jamming/ supervision faults which is likely to be due to your batteries running low/flat.

thanks @secureiam

When I put in the "UDL code" into the keypad - and the screen displays "YES to Select:- Zone Setup"; does this indicate that it is already "in engineer mode".

Do I need to find the "battery replacement" setting, before changing the batteries? Or is being "in engineer mode" sufficient? So the alarm wont go off if I fiddle with the sensors? and I just "exit" engineer mode afterwards?

I'm worried I'll accidentally do something wrong - and cause the internal and external alarm to go off. I dont worry to bother my neighbours - they are all elderly persons.

If I do accidentally trigger the alarm - is there "a master key" or command to turn it off from the keypad?

I dont have access/any knowledge on Wintex; and have never touched the "Panel". Literary learning as I go at the moment!

thank you again.
 
it wont go off whilst your in engineering, yes its suffice, if it logs out of engineering due to time expired, internal sounder only should go off and you can enter user code or engineers code again to silence.

if your worried them maybe you should get an installer to do this for you.
 
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Hi, just providing an update (in case anyone else searches this thread for help).

The UDL Code (in the APP) was also the Engineer Code. Once I put in the code into the Keypad, the screen displayed "YES to Select:- Zone Setup". This indicates its in Engineer Mode. Once in Engineer Mode you can fiddle with the sensors and the alarm will NOT go off. I believe there is a time out function, but to be safe I exited Engineer Mode and re-entered after replacing each battery to be safe.

Using a small Philips head screwdriver, I unclipped the Door Sensor and replaced the battery. CR2450.

Using a small crosshead screwdriver, I unscrewed the single screw for the Motion Sensors and replaced those batteries. CR123A.

All done within 3 minutes. Super quick, super easy.

Many thanks to @secureiam for your help.
 
Hi @secureiam, The Supervision Fault automatically disappeared. Alarm seems to be working as normal now.

You mentioned that there is a newer version of the App? and also to upgrade to SmartCom?

Is the "new App" just for the SmartCom system? (so ComIP users are stuck with the old APP?)

Is the upgrade a "physical" one - as in go into the panel and swap out something? *(I'd would like to understand a bit more if you don't mind.)
 
Currently you are using a comip or comwifi module, the Texecom Connect App, that is now available requires a smart com.

ATS faults are more common on the old app as you cant connect to the panel while its sending a message out and vice versa, plus extra features are available on the Texecom Connect. I advise looking at the Texecom website for you to decide if it is for you or not.

It will require a Smart Com and some programming.
 
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