Texecom system current reducing by 400mA for 10s every minute

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I have a Premier Elite 640 with approx 80 zones all powered from the main panel.
For testing, no bells are connected, no other power sources to the expanders, no batteries in any zones.

*Without* the panel battery connected, the system current is stable at 1.9A

With the panel battery connected, the system current decreases down to 1.5A for 10s approx every minute as reported by Wintex. It is not at the same time every minute, and sometimes it repeats after 30s. The 10s is quite consistent though.

This may be related, but the reason I started investingating is because the keypad brightness drops slightly for 2 seconds every 28 seconds. This is consistent.

I have just replaced the battery with a different one (not new though) and the same behaviour continues. The battery is charging though.

The panel has been in place for about 4 years.

I suspect I'm at the limit of the PSU, and should power some of the networks separately? The bells were configured as SCBs, so as not to consume too much current when sounding.

Does the system current include the battery charging current? I guess not otherwise it would go up when I connect the battery.

Any confirmation or disagreement much appreciated!
 
80 zones all powered from the main panel ! ….what devices do you have on this ? Eg bells ….pirs / dts ….keypads ?
And what size battery ?
 
1 x 18ah battery,
9 keypads
2 bells - SCB.
~20 smoke detectors
~25 PIRs
~20 ricochet window contacts
rest are magnetic contacts or inputs from a home automation system

Soon will add another 2 keypads, 4 smokes, 5 PIRs, 5 ricochet, 8 magnetic contacts...
 
Just to expand on why so many zones - I have 4 little sheds and a garage, each with at least a keypad, pir, magnetic contact and smoke. I have PIRs everywhere for occupancy detection which is integrated with the home automation system.
 
Thanks, I'll measure the current drawn from the PSU to check the accuracy of Wintex.

I can mount the 200XP near to the main panel. Would it be best used to power all the networks, and leave the panel to just deal with bell, and smartcom duty? Or should I share out the networks between panel and xp200?
 
What is the distance from control panel to last device.
Voltage drop on cable.
Take voltage reading of that device.
 
EN calculator available from Texecom's website can help with requirements.

Better to have the PSU200's spread out usually but depends if you have long runs or not circa 100M plus, housing units together makes maintenance time a little easier.

Remember network connection back to the panel is minus the positive from a locally powered PSU. (common negative).

as a quick rule of thumb panel plus two expanders and a psu for every 2.
in reality if you do the calculations you can get more expanders depending on what your loading on to them a 32XP-W doesn't equate to 4 expanders in term's of consumption according to the data its slightly less than 1 8XP which is the hardwired expander.

The problem with measuring voltage drop currently is your system is stressed due to load and your readings may fluctuate, this can be negated by reducing the stress(load) by disconnecting some expanders / keypads so your measuring the voltage drop of an unstressed system.
 
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While not disagreeing with any of the mighty knowledge of others on this forum, I think you may be seeing TWO factors, here.
  • As others mention, your extended setup may well be stretching the capabilities of your power supply, and a good meter across the 12V lines at the furthest ends of your setup should show that.
  • But there is something else which I ALSO observe on my tiny setup, here on my workbench. Every few tens of seconds or so, the voltage measured directly across the backup battery dips a little (a few tens of mV) before returning. It is a regular thing.

I know the panel monitors battery condition. I strongly suspect that the panel does this by periodically and momentarily at least taking the charging current off the battery, or possibly even puts a small load on it, to see what the battery does. if the battery voltage sags by more than a preset amount, then that is a sign that the internal resistance is rising and the battery is therefore probably shagged (technical term).
 
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